Elephant Rocks State Park: Home to Views, Trails, and... Elephants?

 I remember coming to Elephant Rocks State Park back when I was twelve years old with my parents, back in the *cough, cough* 80's... Marveling at the mammoth... er... Elephant sized pink granite boulders. Trying my hand at scaling those circus sized freaks, tracing carvings etched over 100 years ago by master masons with my fingers, gazing over the long abandoned quarry now filled with nearly a century's worth of rain, and exploring so much more. So returning as an adult was almost a homecoming, with the Elephants patiently waiting atop their weathered perch, welcoming me back to the park with a single question, "Are you ready to act like you're 12 again?" To their query, I answered quickly, "Yes", despite me putting on a couple of decades between visits.

Hike and climb among circus sized granite giants
Elephant Rocks State Park draws its name from the colossal pink granite boulders, the largest of which has been named Dumbo and is estimated to tip the scales at 680 tons! You will find an area where these boulders seem to march like a line of elephants upon a barren granite hill which graces the center of the park. If you'd like to get really technical here these pink colossi are perched on a tor, which is Gaelic for rocky hilltop, so if that comes up in a final Jeopardy! round remember who to share your winnings with. On top of the tor, shown in the picture to the left, you may find interesting pools of water, seemingly carved directly out of the granite. These pools are actually referred to as tinajitas and are caused by physical and chemical weathering of the stone, sometimes these tinajitas may be several feet in diameter and provide a home to tadpoles or the hiker's arch-nemesis, mosquito larvae. I have seen some truly beautiful pictures of these circular depressions, filled with water and reflecting their surroundings, but alas... When we visited the park each of the tinajitas we visited were as dry as a bone.

You may also notice many carvings upon the central tor and even on a few of the granite elephants that reside there. Many of the quarry workers would carve their names and date into the granite here when they received the rank of Master Stone Cutter and you will find many dates from the late 19th century, standing as silent testament to the achievements of the men who cut into their igneous bodies. You may also notice growths on some of the stone here as well, called lichens and mosses, generally you will find both of these in sunnier areas. The lichens and mosses found growing here are another piece of the puzzle that develops the unique pattern of weathering demonstrated upon the elephant rocks within the park.

Let your feet and fingers do the walking on the Braille Trail

It is around those stone circus attractions that you will find the first trail ever designed for outdoor lovers with visual or physical disabilities in Missouri, which is fondly referred to as the Braille Trail. The one mile long Braille Trail consists of a fully paved trail featuring signs with braille and regular text, you may even download a MP3 file from the Missouri Department of Conservation that provides audio for each of the interpretive signs along the trail. The Braille Trail loop (circular trail) is a fantastic way to explore the park and as you make your way along you will find spurs (offshoot trails) that lead to additional areas that you may explore, some of these spurs are handicapped accessible, but not all.

Explore the ruins and history of the old quarry
One such spur is the Engine House Ruins Trail, which is less than a half of a mile long and connects to the Braille Trail in two spots, so if you miss the first offshoot, you can catch the other.  Along this trail you will find the remains of the old Engine House, which was constructed here to repair and maintain the quarry's railroad engines. Here you can still find the old rails, now overgrown and sunken into the earth, that would have carried loads of granite from many of the local quarries to the larger railroads, such as the St. Louis, Iron Mountain and Southern Railroad, which were located some miles to the east. The building itself is eerily beautiful with the seemingly random pattern of mortared junctions really showcasing the individual stones fashioned to create it. It feels like you could almost hear the hissing of the old steam engines that would visit here if you listened closely enough...

"Missouri Red" quarried here is still found in Missouri & beyond
As you continue through the park you'll also find a spectacular overlook that provides a beautiful vantage of the old quarry that existed within the park. It has filled with decades of rain water and its steep sides clearly show the scars of the industry that shaped the entire area around the park, even factoring into the name of the nearby city of Graniteville, where you can find quarries that are still running today. It is in areas like this that a man could find himself taking home nearly $5.00 a day by cutting seventy blocks a day in the 1890's. The "Missouri Red", the trade name given to the granite products quarried from this area, can be found right here in Missouri, within the paving stones of some old St. Louis streets, the piers of the Eads Bridge and in the columns of the Missouri Governor's mansion, the granite was also shipped throughout the United States. As you soak in the eagle eye view available here take notice of the beautiful black oak and shag bark hickory trees that grow in the granitic soil here at Elephant Rock State Park.

Look for old "Plug and Feather" tools
Traveling the Braille Trail around the over 131 acre state park, you'll notice large piles of granite scattered here and there. You will undoubtedly notice that many of these granite stones bear marks of an ancient technique for splitting the dense and tough stone called "plug and feather". The plug and feather technique has been used since the pyramid builders of ancient Egypt (and maybe even earlier). It is a brilliantly simple concept and requires only a few tools to pull off, a metal wedge (called a plug) and two metal shims (referred to as the feathers). A hole is drilled into the stone along a drawn line, which is where the stone cutter wishes the large block to split, then the feathers are inserted and the plug is then placed between the two feathers. Generally there will be multiple holes drilled and multiple pairings of feathers and plugs along the intended split line. At this point the stone mason will begin to strike each plug in succession moving down the intended split line, which causes the feathers to move outward from the center as the plug is driven, continuing to strike until the stone relents and fractures along the line. If you are careful and very observant you may even find some of the old feather and plugs that the quarry workers left behind in some of the holes! The picture to the right shows the fracture of the stone and unused holes as well where the masons looked to split the slab further. However, not all of the holes you find in these rock where placed there to split the stone, some are the results of core samples, taken to determine the quality of the granite.

Don't get lost in "The Maze"
One of the last spurs that you will find off of the Braille Trail is an area nicknamed "The Maze" where you can wander and explore a section of the trail that features scattered boulders that would beckon "Climb me..." if they could speak. I spent a good amount of time here, bouldering, leaping, wedging myself into crags and cracks and generally acting like my old twelve-year-old self, however my now older body would have a serious discussion with me the following morning, just to remind me of how old I truly am. You could easily spend the bulk of your hike here trying to summit each of the boulders, each of which seems to present you with a different brain teaser of what method to use to climb them. Also keep in mind, it can be dangerous climbing on rocks and leaping from place to place. Any water on the surface of these stones can easily cause you to loose footing and slip as well, that beautiful pink granite makes a pretty slick wet surface, so be careful!

Pay homage to those who served in WWI
As you begin or end your journey on the Braille Trail you may notice a poem carved into a large granite rock face. The carving is weathered and somewhat hard to read, but if you concentrate and focus you will find that these poetic words were carved to pay respect to those who did not come home from World War I in 1918, "In honor of our nation's brave that sleeps over the wave, they died that we be free no more war to be 1918."

Pro-Tips for Elephant Rocks State Park
Elephant Rocks State Park is an extremely unique and beautiful park, so don't be surprised to find other outdoor enthusiasts filling the park on the same day you arrive. The entire area is particularly beautiful in the fall as the leaves begin to change, the black oak and shag bark hickory put on quite a display of oranges, reds, and every shade between. Be sure to bring a camera, you'll certainly want to take some pictures with these behemoths and maybe even shoot a quick selfie on some of the scenic overlooks from the tor (remember what a tor is... and remember to cut me in on that final Jeopardy! question...). Let the kids (and the kids at heart) play, explore and just generally have fun... But be careful, the beautiful pink granite here becomes slick as snot with a bit of water and remember falls onto solid rock hurt and can easily break bones. Finally, bring a picnic lunch. There are a great deal of picnic areas at Elephant Rocks, be sure to take some time out to reconnect with your loved ones and just sit back, eat and talk about just how awesome Elephant Rocks State Park is. Happy trails and thank you for reading!


Directions


More Information:
Local Treks on facebook 
Missouri Department of Conservation: Elephant Rocks Webpage
MO State Parks: Elephant Rocks Webpage
MO State Parks: Teacher's Guide to Elephant Rocks
MO State Parks: Elephant Rocks State Park Trails
MO State Parks: General Information
  - Braille Trail Map (1 mile)
  - Engine House Ruin Map (0.40 mile)
Missouri State Parks.net: Elephant Rocks
Wikipedia: Plug and Feather

Buford Mountain Conservation Area: Take Time To Take It Slow

In today's world it seems nearly everything moves fast and sometimes it may seem to move too fast. The week may speed by in a blur, leaving you to wonder... What did I do this week? What did I accomplish? Where are my keys? After a week like this, it's time to slow down. Way down. I just so happen to know that Buford Mountain Conservation Area is an extraordinary place to do it, and I will assure you, when you've finished the 10.6 mile loop you'll know what you did, what you accomplished, but your keys... Well, that's on you.

The (3rd) Top of Missouri: Big Buford

Keep an eye out for this low stone wall as you scale Big Buford.

Buford Mountain Conservation Area is located just a few miles North of Ironton, Missouri off of the inconspicuous Route U. The mountain itself is actually more of a ridge, accentuated by a series of five high points along its spine. The first, and tallest point, on the trail has been nicknamed "Big Buford". As you climb its steep, rocky sides, keep an eye out for an old stone wall, evidence that early homesteaders laid claim to this area at one time, stone by stone. Big Buford peaks at 1740 feet above sea level, which happens to lay its claim to the 3rd highest peak in the state. How's that for a bit of an accomplishment? Hey, you didn't need any oxygen or Sherpas! Sure, not everyone may hold that to be a true Herculean feat, but I'll tell you what; after making the nearly 700 foot ascent to the wooded top of Big Buford over the winding rock and dirt surfaced trail, I'm pretty sure you'll feel a true sense of triumph. However, that sense of triumph may be slightly trumped by the fact that Big Buford is wooded, pretty heavily wooded in fact, and that makes for no sweeping vistas, no awe inspiring horizon to scan, no I Can See for Miles and Miles (I love The Who, don't you?) moment. But wait... Just put The Who on pause for a moment, because your Miles and Miles view exists just a bit further down the trail at a place called Bald Knob.

The "Moonscape": Peak Two

As you make your way toward the spectacular view at Bald Knob, you will first make your way over two more peaks and these aren't just "hike over" territory either. As you make your way down from Big Buford, keep your eyes open for the first of six wildlife watering holes which line this trail, placed there due to the lack of any real natural water source in the area. As the trail begins to once again gain elevation, you will find yourself near the second overall peak on the trail. It is here that the dense hardwood begins to make way for a very interesting formation of rock. It is here, at a touch over 1680 feet in elevation that the hardened granite stone of which the mountain is primarily composed of, known as ryholite, is completely exposed giving you access to your first encounter with one of a few "glades" located on the trail's route. It is this exposure that gave me a sense of what it must feel like to hike a bit on the moon, there is little vegetation, save for some lichen and moss growth upon the smooth stone floor, and I watched as the fall foliage, free from their tree moorings, swept across the desert like surface. I spent a few minutes here, one due to it being so beautifully stark and two... Well, I was a bit tired, that was two peaks one at 1740 and this one at 1680, in the span of about a mile.

The Fork: Peak Three

As you start descending from the "moonscape" second peak, you'll make your way past another wildlife watering hole and find yourself climbing back to around 1600 feet, by now I hope you've realized this trail is a quad burner. This third peak is similar to what you found at the top of Big Buford, a fairly heavily wooded peak with some large rocks scattered here and there. As you crest this third peak, you will soon find yourself at a fork in the trail that marks the beginning of the Buford Mountain loop. It is at this junction that you can continue left (Northwest) and head to Bald Knob or right (Northeast). Most visitors certainly bear on to the left trail and make their way toward the gorgeous view from Bald Knob, and that is the way I took. The trail is marked with directional arrows at this point too, although they may be somewhat obscured by forest growth. I'll be honest with you here as well, many hikers do not take the full 10.6 loop hike at Buford Mountain, many hike to Bald Knob and back, putting the total mileage at closer to 6.6 miles, which is still a pretty decent hike.

The View: Bald Knob

As you begin your climb up the fourth peak, you can begin to cue "Miles and Miles", because the forest canopy begins to quickly thin, and you enter another beautiful glade area as you near the top of Bald Knob. But, before you get to the official scenic overlook, you may find a less worn trail that leads off slightly to the West, following that faint trail led me to a wonderful appetizer of a view of the Belleview Valley below, complete with a small fire pit and boulders to perch upon. In fact, I thought I had stumbled upon the official Bald Knob view here and took a TON of pictures, not realizing that the actual infamous vista was really a few more yards to the North.

However, if you decide to stick to the main trail only, don't be worried, as you approach Bald Knob you will once again begin to real Bald Knob overlook. It is at this overlook, at this time, no doubt with "Miles and Miles" playing softly through your earbuds, that you will be granted one heck of a view. A view that stretches over miles of the Belleview Valley will sprawl below you and if you've made this trek in late October you nay be treated with the brilliant fall pallet of oranges, reds, tans, and violets of the foliage. Quite simply THIS is the view you are looking for, and it is gorgeous. The overlook comes complete with a "posing" boulder, which will allow you to gain even a bit more elevation from which to survey your new kingdom from 1560 feet above sea level and maybe even snap a selfie or two. Even my hairy hiking buddy, Hyatt, had to get in on the view, he perched on the boulder, flashed me a toothy smile and I just had to take his picture...
see markers and signage. In fact, there is a rather large sign, complete with arrow that directs you quite well to just the right spot to take it all in.

The Rest: Peak Five & The Valley

Can you spot the 4-pointer?

I'll be honest, after the view from Bald Knob the rest of the hike had a hard time keeping up. But honestly, I loved this hike. I had a hard time saying goodbye to the sweeping view offered at Bald Knob, but eventually made my way down the trail, passing another wildlife watering hole, and then back up to the fifth peak. At the top of peak five, many of the trees appeared dead, with brittle branches covered in lichens and moss, but the undergrowth was thick with many new saplings quickly reaching their way to the sun. I continued on and began to descend from the fifth peak and into the valley, which would comprise a good portion of the back side of the loop. As I neared the bottom, I was greeted by a large grove of cedars, and it was here that I nearly missed my turn to stay on the loop. There was a small arrow pointing to the East, but I missed it, luckily I caught a small break in identifying the trail seemed to split here. The odd thing about the split was that the "wrong" trail was better worn than the trail that continued the loop.

As I made my way through the valley, I concentrated on just taking it slow and taking it all in. Then, I came to notice a great deal of wildlife activity around me. Squirrels twittered at me from their lofty tree homes, I heard turkeys clucking in the distance and I was even lucky enough to happen upon a small four-point buck who was out grazing the plentiful acorns as noon neared. Which brings me to a quick warning, the MDC does allow hunting in this area, particularly hunting of squirrel, turkey and deer, so please be aware of any possible Missouri hunting seasons as you may want to postpone your hike or tread a bit more carefully and brightly than usual at those times.

Directions:

More Information:

Local Treks on facebook 
My Buford Mountain Flickr Album: More snaps from my hike through the area
Buford Mountain Conservation Area Summary Page: MDC Information
Buford Mountain Area Map: Provided by the MDC
Buford Mountain Area Information: Provided by the MDC

Google My Tracks Information:

Millstream Gardens: Well Shut Me In!

More of my pictures from Millstream Gardens Atta'Way---->

Millstream Gardens is 916 acres of pure magic. The area holds wonders for nearly every outdoor enthusiast and boasts an appearance more reminiscent of the rushing rivers of Colorado than the rolling hills of Missouri. The wonder and natural beauty of Millstream Gardens and the Tiemann Shut-ins contained therein, beg you to take it slow, absorb in the natural majesty and savor every sound, especially the steady sound of rare Missouri whitewater, rushing through the smooth carved granite.

As you enter the Millstream Gardens Conservation Area, located just off of hwy 72 between Arcadia and Fredricktown, MO, you will come to a fork in the road. Turning left at the fork takes you to the "official" trail head for the Millstream Gardens trail. From the official trail head the hike runs for about one and a half miles through the woodlands and along the St. Francois River, connecting Millstream Gardens to the Silver Mines Recreation Area. This trail is not a loop trail, so once you've made the journey to the Silver Mines, you'll be heading on back on the same trail, making the trip a three mile trek.

Local Treks: Tiemann Shut-Ins

For hikers with small children and disabilities you will LOVE the beginning of this trail, which hosts a half to three quarters of a mile of paved trail, featuring benches nearly every 100-200 feet. The paved trail also features a very unique low wooden bridge, which crosses a shallow creek, zigging and zagging back and forth creating an interesting crossing. While walking along this portion of the trail, keep a keen eye out for wild blackberries, I spotted them nearly everywhere on a summer trip to the area. At the end of the pavement you will come to a large wooden patio, which provides a perfect vantage point to take in a particularly beautiful section of Tiemann Shut-Ins (pronounced Tee-Man, according to the locals we spoke with). Why is it called a shut-in? Well here's a real "Ozark" answer: The term shut in comes from the stream or river being "shut in" or confined within a deep channel. Forcing the St. Francois River into this channel creates some decent rapids, and that's why the kayaking crews LOVE this portion of the river.

Who's a happy boy?

You'll want to spend some time here for sure. The scenery is absolutely astounding and you may find yourself snapping far more pictures than you ever imagined right here at this spot. It is also a perfect spot to dip your toes into the St. Francis River, let the kids (or yourself) splash around in the chilly water, leap from boulder to boulder, take in a quick snack or just sit, and let the sounds of the rushing water simply sooth you. On my first visit to this area, I can assure you that if my border collie, Hyatt, could speak he would have asked to never leave this spot. He splashed from rock to rock and along the sandy shores with the largest smile to ever grace a canine's face. Those of you with dogs will need to take care however, your shoes may give you ample grip on the smooth igneous rocks that form the shut-ins, but your pooch's pads and nails will not, Hyatt slipped into the water frequently as he attempted to follow the same route as myself.

Heading East from the overlook you will find the beginning of the Millstream Gardens hiking trail, which is unpaved. As you make your way down the dirt path the trail you will find signs calling attention to landmarks such as Shark's Fin rock, a large angular rock, jutting up from St. Francis River, perhaps to take a bite or two out of some of the kayakers as they shoot the rapids. Other labeled points of interest you will find in this beginning section of the trail are Pine Rock Overlook and Double Drop Rapids. Pine Rock Overlooks provides a perfect perch to steal a few photos of the shut-ins as well. As you continue, ever eastward, you will begin to leave the Tiemann Shut-Ins area and enter the more heavily wooded portion of the trail.

I caught this bug nabbing a snack!

After the beauty of Tiemann Shut-Ins, don't fret! There is much to be found in the forested area of the trail as well, Millstream Gardens isn't all just pink igneous rock, river and shut-ins. As you continue your hike along the trail you will find majestic oak, hickory and shortleaf pine in the upland woods, complimented by ash, elm and maple trees near the banks of the St. Francois River. The steady sounds of the river can nearly always be heard through the hike; providing a perfect background accompaniment to the bird solos and chorus provided by the wind blowing through the canopy. I spotted beautiful wildflowers nearly everywhere and took a great deal of photos of each, then upon looking at them closer at home, noticed that nearly every single flower hosted some type of stinging or biting insect. I'm certainly glad I didn't go sticking my nose straight in them! Other wildlife to keep an eye out for is white-tailed deer, turkey and... snakes during the warm months.

The trail through the wooded area is relatively flat, with only a few hills that reside near the midway point of the hike. In the "hilly" areas, be careful of your footing as there is loose rock and occasional water trickling through or over the trail. When you find yourself approximately three quarters of a mile east from the Tiemann Shut-In patio, you may notice a lonely concrete foundation, just before the trail begins to follow the St. Francis once again. I scoured the area for any indication as to what the foundation may have been, but only confounded myself more, spotting three cylindrical concrete forms 15-20 yards to the east of the foundation on the north side of the trail. I've continued to look online and even ask locals around the area, but have yet to discover what the foundation may have been prior. The trail may seem to "split" here at the foundation, but the path that leads west is just a slight spur that will take you to a scenic little area of the river, that features a splendid view of a tall bluff that forces the St. Francis River to flow on its northern side.

From here the trail continues eastward to the Silver Mines and Mark Twain National Forest. As the trail nears the banks of the St. Francis be aware that you may have to make slight deviations from the path, as rising water sometimes pools in these areas or deposits branches, twigs, trees and other objects that may block your path. Don't be too wary though, you will not have to step more than a few yards from the clear trail in order to get around these small "trail-blockers". If you've brought a picnic lunch the large open field at the Silver Mines provides not only a wonderful place to take in the scenery and spot TONS of wildflowers, but also many picnic tables as well so that you may sit alongside the St. Francis River, take a reprieve and prepare for the wonderful return trip to Millstream.

In fact, upon your return to Millstream you may want to take the path that leads west from the Tiemann Shut-Ins overlook. This trail will lead you to another perfect picnic spot, this one featuring a vista over looking the St. Francis River, a picnic pavilion, and one of the most twisted pine trees I've ever seen, just check it out below!

Enjoy a picnic with a view of the river and one TWISTED pine!

As with any trip into the woods there are ticks in this area, so you may want to brush up on what keeps them at bay and how to remove one should it embed. And of course if you're taking children along, you may want  to check out some tips on how to take a GREAT Day Hike. Thanks for reading, be sure to leave a comment down below or check us out on facebook!

 
More Information:
Mill Streams Garden Conservation Area on mdconline
Millstream Gardens Area Map
My Flickr Gallery of Images
Local Treks on facebook
White Water and Rock Hounding: Silver Mines Recreational Area
Tiny. Tenacious. Terrible. Ticks. - How to keep those bloodsuckers at bay!
How To Take A GREAT Day Hike

Groovin' At Hippie Hole: Amidon Memorial Conservation Area

Looking downstream at the Hippie Hole

Taking the Right Fork...
Just a few weeks ago I did a short write up on the Castor River Shut Ins of Amidon, which were located just off the left fork in the road as we entered the Amidon Memorial Conservation Area. It was a quick jaunt down the well groomed and maintained trail to get a look at those gorgeous, smooth pink granite boulders that had been shaped and sculpted for years by the Castor River. After finishing the Jekyll and Hyde trail that looped the left area, I left a little "cliff hanger"... What was down the right fork?

A firestruck tree we found searching
for the mystery concrete foundation.

Well, I suppose I'll retrace my steps a bit, and get you out to the area again with a bit of old fashioned written directions. From St. Louis, you'll take I-55 South to US 67 South towards Bonne Terre/Farmington. After about 50 or so miles you'll need to take MO-72/US-67 BUS toward Fredricktown. At the roundabout (traffic circle) you'll want to continue on Missouri Highway 72, and follow to US-72/Missouri OO where you'll turn right, continuing on US-72 until you see a turnoff on Route J, you'll turn left onto Route J and then keep an eye out for Route W, which you'll take a right on. Follow Route W until you reach County Road 208 (CR 208) and follow that until it turns to a gravel/dirt road and you reach a fork in the road at Amidon Memorial Conservation Area, this time, we'll bear right and continue on CR 208!

Not far down the road from the fork, you'll find a parking lot on your left. If you "dig" (no pun originally intended) gravestones and old family graveyard plots, you can park here and search out the two small cemeteries that are located in the field. We searched for them both, but were only able to find one. We discovered it by hiking directly west of the parking lot to a small grove of cedars. There, in the shade of the evergreens were a few gravestones, to be honest, I haven't investigated those that are entombed there... That may provide another bit of an adventure.

Taking a pause by Hippie Hole in the Fall.

If you hop back in your vehicle and continue down further on CR 208 you'll come to what the area map has labeled as a "Deep Fjord-Caution". This is, in fact, an unaided crossing of the Castor River, think you're up to it? Let me begin with one quick note, never, ever, ever cross flooded, deep or rapidly moving water. Do not cross it on foot, do not cross it in a car, do not attempt upon a lamb and do not cross with green eggs and ham. In all seriousness, don't cross it, you could die. Now, with the pleasantries of possible death taken care of let's get to how you might be able to tell all your friends that you crossed the Castor River in your car! It's simple, after you've established that the water isn't too deep or flooded, find a line and then slowly cross. Don't fire it up there Evel Knievel style and gun it in an attempt to skip across, if you do that you'll run a risk of driving the water into your engine and killing it, just take it easy with slow steady pressure and poof, you'll be safely across. If it looks too deep or you're just a bit frightened of crossing a river in your car (perhaps it's the thought that the river may end up running through your car), you can safely park your car off the road and walk across if you like. In fact, if you just want to play in the water, this crossing area is a great spot to cool off and search for some crawdads hiding underneath rocks. But the real refresher lies about a half mile upstream, at a place a local swimmer we met called the "Hippie Hole".

Keep your eyes up too, you never know what may be up there!

Once you've crossed the Castor River, keep an eye out for a possible second crossing over Stannett Creek very soon after, same rules apply to this crossing, be safe please. After the short crossing of Stannett Creek look for a gravel parking lot to your left, this will be were you may begin your short trek to the Hippie Hole! The trail head begins there at the parking lot and will begin by taking you just on the outskirts of a cleared field. Here wildflower abound during the spring and birds seem to be nearly everywhere. Once to the far edge of the field you will enter into a more wooded area, here the trail is clearly visible, but be careful of exposed roots from the trees that line the trail, they can easily trip you up. This trail will wind alongside the Castor River, with a full canopy of hardwood trees surrounding you as you get closer to Hippie Hole. When the canopy opens up and you hit a gigantic solid mass of pink granite (like in the picture up top) you've arrived at the Hippie Hole. This is a great place to take a dip or even a jump or two!

Love these big pink boulders!

Once you've arrived at the Hippie Hole the trail, for the most part, ends. But don't let that stop you if you're up for a bit of adventure! We continued on, constantly keeping the river within view through the trees, heading ever northward. A local swimmer we met upon our initial arrival had told us of an old building foundation, somewhere "up there" with full finger pointing proximity, and despite our best efforts, we were unable to find it during our extended hike. However, we did find some absolutely beautiful rocks, some chock full of quartz crystals of different colors, and plenty of huge boulders to climb, jump and impersonate Spiderman upon! Also, if you're quiet (and we were), you may even walk up on some whitetail deer in this area. We came across a small herd of 5-6 as we crested a hill, and all of us had a bit of a shock! There are also plenty of squirrels, birds, small reptiles and wild turkey that play in the woods here. You could hike up to the Castor River Shut Ins by just continuing to follow the river upstream a bit over a mile or so, as well if you like.

Now, I referred to this area Hippie Hole and I'm no local. I've heard there are some that call it different names, while others have Hippie Hole in a different location all together... All I can do is count on that one local swimmer's account for the naming of this area, but of course, his directions to that concrete foundation weren't so great, so he may have been a bit off... But with cool waters to tread in and rocks to take a plunge from, I'll just call it a great old fashioned swimmin' hole!

More Information:
Amidon Memorial Conservation Area Homepage
Amidon Area Map (may want to refer to this as you drive from Fredricktown to Amidon for directions*)
Audubon Society of Missouri Amidon Bird Check List

*Note on map below... Google seems to use different terminology on some roads/rural highways, the path below should still get you to the area from St. Louis.

View Larger Map

Get Into The Flow: Amidon Memorial Conservation Area

The Castor River Shut-Ins of Amidon
Gorgeous. Absolutely, unequivocal beauty. That is what I honestly think about the Castor River Shut-ins area of the Amidon Memorial Conservation Area. In fact, I'm not sure those words can even do it justice, we may need to come up with a new word, just to describe the beauty of the flowing waters and brilliant pink granite rocks that are found there.

In order to get to the lot that contains the trail head for the Cedar Glade Trail, you'll need to take Route J east of Fredricktown, MO to Route W (make a right), then head East on County Road 208 (CR 208). CR 208 will turn into a dirt/gravel road while you ride along, so don't fear any toothless banjo players, but you should always keep your eye out for em', just in case... As you scoot down CR 208 you will come to a fork in the road, and in the middle of that fork you'll see a real grist stone from one of the old mills that used to be located on the land here, so take a second to park along the side of the road and take a peek, it is a pretty nifty piece of history. Once you're finished checking out the grist stone, take the fork to the left, County Road 253 (CR 253) and then look for a parking lot on your right, there you'll find the trail head of the Cedar Glade Trail that will take you to the Castor River Shut-ins. Did I confuse you? Then take a peek at this area map, it may help sort it out for you and, of course there is a map at the bottom of this post that will take you to the Google Maps version.

I swear Hyatt's smiling big here...

Now, the Cedar Glade Trail, a 1 mile long loop trail, has a bit of a Jekyll and Hyde personality to it. The Dr. Jekyll side, or the "good" side, is a beautiful, wide and well trampled trail that leads from the parking lot to the Castor River Shut-ins. The hike takes you through a forest of mixed hardwood trees, dotted with short leaf pine growth, you may notice some extremely large oak trees which have fallen over, root ball included on the sides of the trail. I don't know exactly what caused these mighty hardwood trees to topple, but they certainly were old growth. Keep an eye out for turkey, squirrel and deer as the area contains a decent population of them out here, we even observed the ever elusive domestic short haired cat, which sent ol' Hyatt (our border collie) into a frenzy. The Dr. Jekyll portion will finally empty you out at the Castor River Shut-ins and I'm sure you'll be just as impressed with the river as we were.

The smooth granite boulders of the shut-ins.

Here you'll see the Castor River as it carves through the baby's bottom smooth pink granite. The rocks are gorgeous and the river may even have a bit of a blue or green tinge to it, making the whole scene absolutely picturesque. As always, beautiful smooth rock and water are a combination for slips and falls, so watch your step as you traverse the pink granite boulders. After you have, lets say, dipped your toes into the free flowing Castor River and felt the warmth of the summer sun as you rest on one of the pink boulders, you should be ready to take on the last bit of the Cedar Glade Trail... The Mr. Hyde portion.

Photos can't do justice to the scenery here.

The Mr. Hyde portion of the trail is the more "difficult" in terrain, as you will be walking on some of the smooth (and most likely wet) granite rock surfaces and navigating a bit of a loosely packed rock trail that heads up in elevation. The trail here is not as well maintained and some of the rocks will slip from underfoot as you make your way up, however, the pay off is nearly as grand as the view of the Shut-ins was for the first portion, this portion of the trail offers an over look that provides a vantage of all that you just observed up close and personal. As you finish the loop, be sure to visit the restoration of the glades areas here, you'll find some beautiful wildflowers blooming in spring!

Now, it is a short trail, and when it ends you will most likely want more, we certainly did. But don't worry, there is more to explore at Amidon, remember that fork in the road from earlier. Well what do you think is down the right fork? I hope to write more soon on that right fork of Amidon, such as a little spot to swim called "Hippie Hole" and some free range exploring. So get your bathing suit ready and I hope you're not afraid of some crawdads and bit of river crossing in a car!!

More Information:
Amidon Memorial Conservation Area
Amidon Area Map


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White Water and Rock Hounding: Silver Mines Recreational Area

A view of the breached dam at the Silver Mines Recreation Area.

Here's another great site that I discovered on a field trip in college, the Silver Mines Recreation Area, which is part of the Mark Twain National Forest, is located near Fredricktown and Ironton, Missouri. This area is named, ever so aptly, for the abandoned silver mines that are found here that were mined from 1877 through 1946 by the Einstein Silver Mining Company. Given that the operation spewed tons of rocks (leavings or tailings) from deep within the Earth as the miners searched for their target minerals of silver, tungsten and lead, this is a relative Shangri-la for rock hounds, who come from far and wide, rock hammers in hand to see what treasures they may unearth from the rubble. But those who are not out to hunt for minerals and stones may be after a different type of thrill, the thrill they find on the St. Francis River, the thrill of the only true "White Water" to be found in the state. I knew that the sound of rushing water and the possibility of finding some rare minerals would certainly interest my wife and daughter... and I couldn't have been more right.

A dragonfly paused long enough to give me this shot.

There are actually two hiking trails here, I'll send you to the one that is on the South side of the St. Francis River, that runs near the "Air Conditioner" mine and the tailings from the mine operations the North side is every bit as beautiful and slippery as the South, I just love rock hounding). After parking the car (be aware there is a day use fee of $2.00 per vehicle here, place your payment in the envelope and slip it into the locked container) you will make your way across the concrete walkway then head to the right to begin your one mile hike up to the dam. This hike is absolutely stunning, with gorgeous granite and felsite outcroppings and stunning views of the St. Francis River marking the trails progression. Be careful though, the same granite and felsite rocks that are so interesting to look at and examine may be the same formation may cause your rear become painfully acquainted with the hard ground and said rock, as these rocks can become quite slippery after rain or covered in early morning dew.

A member of the "indigenous" population takes a sun.

As you continue up, past the scenic overlook (which was in some disrepair on our visits there), be sure to stop by the "Air Conditioner" Mine and have a seat, especially on a hot Midwestern summer day! The air that comes from the mouth of this abandoned mine is more than cool enough to invigorate you for the rest of your short hike to the dam. You may not always be able to take a seat here though, as the available space at the mouth of the mine may be flooded with a foot or more of water, depending on the last time it rained in the area. Soon after taking a cooling break you will reach an area that is just pure rock, these are actually all tailings, from the mining of the area. This is a GREAT place to stop and begin exploring the different types of rocks and searching for some rare silver, quartz, or even small fragments of various gemstones.

Yes. That's a scorpion. In Missouri...

While you are exploring the abandoned tailings for interesting rocks and formations, BE CAREFUL! The native inhabitants of the area, which include snakes and small scorpions, may be hiding underneath rocks as you overturn them, use a stick... Please. This is the only place I have ever been, in Missouri, that I have actually found a scorpion (see the photo). I found this scorpion by picking up a rock, mere centimeters in front of its "face" and was beyond lucky not to have been stung. On a separate note, I believe that purple mineral found on the rocks there is flourite, and you'll find a great deal of that in the rocks here. Also be careful on the loose rock, period. It may shift at anytime and send you sliding down the hill. An amateur geologist also presented us with this small bit of knowledge (I can't vouch for the accuracy of it though), if you are looking for a bit of silver, most of it is contained in small veins you can find in the quartz rocks of the area. The silver here may appear dark or almost black to slightly silver metallic in color.

While rock hounding you may also keep an eye to the St. Francis River, particularly during the Spring, as you will undoubtedly be able to spot some crazy kayakers as they shoot out of the breach in the dam that used to span the river. These folks are amazing to watch and I've heard epic party details from when the American Whitewater Championships are in swing there during weekends in March. I never tire of watching the kayaks slice the water and navigate down the river through the dam.

Overall this is one of my favorite spots to visit and I certainly hope I didn't scare anyone with the shifting rocks, slippery outcrops, snakes and scorpions (dangers exist in all of the great outdoors), there is just so much to see and do. The whole family enjoys looking through the rocks, searching for that next shiny little "gem" and the wildlife certainly can keep you on your toes. When you couple that with magnificent views, a mine that can provide you a bit of A/C, a cooling river that you can take a wade in (but be careful of the current and dropoffs) and some wonderful plants and rock outcrops to explore, it's hard not to have a great family time!

All the action can exhaust even Hyatt, our border collie... And that's TOUGH!

Thank you for reading and, as always, let me know if you have any questions about the area or any experiences you would like to share! If you're "digging" (like the rock hound inference there?) the blog, be sure to give it a +1G up there and subscribe by just putting in your email address, you won't be bothered unless a new post goes up...

Happy trails and watch where you step!

More Information:

• Local Treks on facebook 
• Silver Mines Recreational Area Webpage
• Click here for Silver Mines Area Map
• Federal Regulations on "Rock Hounding"

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Other Nearby Parks/Recreational Areas:

• Millstream Gardens Conservation Area
• Amidon Memorial Conservation Area (more on this area soon another one of my FAVES!)