Washington State Park: Take 1000 Steps Back In Time

Washington State Park in DeSoto, Missouri, is absolutely amazing. Today the park features a park store, water craft rentals (canoes, rafts, tubes, and kayaks), gravel river banks to river swim from, rental cabins, campgrounds, swimming pool, playgrounds, trails and so much more; it is hard to imagine that it was once home to a group of Mississippian Indians over 600 years ago. It was these Native Americans that literally left their mark on the area in the form of fantastic petroglyphs, which are (for the most part) still undecipherable even today and the petroglyphs here make up 2/3 of the known Missouri carvings! For the outdoor trekkers you'll find the park is home to three trails: the 1.5 mile 1000 Steps Trail, the 2.5 mile Opossum Trail and the 6 mile Rockywood Trail (backpackers will find a camp on this trail). Although the family and I wanted to "hit em all", for our visit, we concentrated on taking time exploring the petroglyphs, park amenities and then took foot to the 1000 Step Trail.

The 1000 Steps Trail begins just across
the lot from the Thunderbird Lodge.

To reach the 1000 Step Trail follow the signs to the Thunderbird Lodge, which is an outstanding example of the African American Civil Conservation Corps handiwork, and park in the lot there. Now, I absolutely must give out a bit history here, because this trail is so unique and beautiful that credit simply has to be given to the Civil Conservation Corps (CCC). The African American Civil Conservation Corps Company 1743 began developing the park land soon after the land was aquired in 1936. Without their skill and stone-masonry most of the buildings (including the Thunderbird Lodge where the company's main camp was located) would not exist and the 1000 Steps Trail would not have a single hand carved step to its name. You will pass by many examples of their work throughout the park, but will find three awesome examples on this hike; Thunderbird Lodge, the steps themselves on the trail and a gorgeous overlook shelter that practically begs you to take a photo of the Big River and the lush valley that contains the float-tastic river. These buildings were placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1985. Ok, now let's get to hiking!

The steps blend perfectly with the woods,
complimenting them rather than competing.

After checking out the Thunderbird Lodge, and maybe booking a float trip for later, you will quickly find the trail head for the 1000 Step Trail just across the parking lot from the lodge. The hike begins quite easy, with a well maintained dirt path (watch out for tree roots) that skirts the road and provides a ground level view of the Big River out in the distance. You will soon reach the loop portion of the trail where we took the left path and followed the Yellow (1000 Step Trail) Blazes. The trees that quickly envelop you are large and seemingly ancient, providing much needed shade for a summer's hike and (I would imagine) would provide a beautiful palate of oranges, reds and yellows during the fall. As we progressed you will see small examples of the CCC's attention to detail, with rocks that line the trail fading in and out, and small bridges that cross spans that are easy to hop. As you continue on and the Big River begins to disappear and the hardwood and pine woods surround you, the first of many CCC placed steps will reveal themselves, yet seem dissolve into the very environment in which they are contained, a perfect example of man working in coordination with nature. Now, while climbing these steps you will quickly notice the carpet of moss, lichens and plant-life, these may make the steps slippery so climb with a touch of caution.

As you make your way on the trail (primarily uphill that is), you may find turkey, deer, mischievous squirrels and other small mammals, as well as small toads and frogs (always a family favorite!), but keep a particular keen eye out during summer as the eastern collared lizard can be found skittering and leaping, upright on their hind legs, from rock to rock. The hardwood forest, consisting of towering Oak, Hickory, Kentucky coffee, sugar maple and slippery elm, has a good undergrowth of pawpaw trees, and if you're lucky you may even find a bit of fruit on one of those pawpaws (if the squirrels and deer haven't found them first). About halfway along the loop, the forest will begin to thin as you approach an opening near the nature center and the restrooms (both constructed by the CCC), during this bit of the hike you may find some wonderful wildflowers, including: Blue-Eyed Marys, Bluebells, Trilliums, Violets and Poppies a particularly lucky and keen eye may even find a rare Primrose, Fremont's Leather Flower and the ever so delicate Blue-Violet Nemastylis.

After searching for wildflowers and re-emerging into the forest, be sure to take the right fork to stay on the 1000 Steps Trail, unless you're looking for a place to picnic, then head left, as it takes you to a nice picnic shelter. As you continue on the trail you will soon come to one of the best scenic overlooks I've visited. The view allows for a panoramic glimpse of the Big River and the valley through which it runs and, when under clear blue skies that contrast the lush green of the valley, it's a hard view to beat. Better yet, you can enjoy the view from the quaint CCC constructed overlook building, which melds in perfectly with the surrounding bluffs upon which the site rests. At the overlook building you can also catch a refreshing breeze and closely examine the skill with which each block was cut, placed and set.

You may even "off trail" as small trail runs near the overlook.

After giving your soul a chance to absorb a bit of the Big River horizon, you can continue down the trail which will take you down a dolomite bluff, where rocks have separated from the face and some have tumbled onto the path. Watch your footing here as the rocks can easily slide out from underfoot and send you swiftly to the sitting position, perhaps bruising your pride and your tailbone. As you continue, be sure to look at the path itself, the small rocks imbedded and loose on the trail may be hiding a plethora of quartz crystals in their geode like folds and holes. Just before the end of the trail there is a perfect place to sit on the steps and simply take in the last bits of the serenity that surrounds you, breathe it in, take a few pictures and head back to the trail head.

After hiking the 1000 Steps Trail, and really being introduced to all the outstanding things to do in the park, we can't wait to return to Washington State Park. Next up with most likely be a backpacking trip through Rockywood Trail to view the quarry used by the CCC for the local buildings and a search for the elusive Missouri tarantula!

The overlook absolutely BEGS you to take photos here!

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More Information:
Like Local Treks on Facebook
Flickr Gallery of photos
Washington State Park
City of DeSoto, Missouri Webpage
Area Events (DeSoto, MO)
Local Weather Conditions

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Groovin' At Hippie Hole: Amidon Memorial Conservation Area

Looking downstream at the Hippie Hole

Taking the Right Fork...
Just a few weeks ago I did a short write up on the Castor River Shut Ins of Amidon, which were located just off the left fork in the road as we entered the Amidon Memorial Conservation Area. It was a quick jaunt down the well groomed and maintained trail to get a look at those gorgeous, smooth pink granite boulders that had been shaped and sculpted for years by the Castor River. After finishing the Jekyll and Hyde trail that looped the left area, I left a little "cliff hanger"... What was down the right fork?

A firestruck tree we found searching
for the mystery concrete foundation.

Well, I suppose I'll retrace my steps a bit, and get you out to the area again with a bit of old fashioned written directions. From St. Louis, you'll take I-55 South to US 67 South towards Bonne Terre/Farmington. After about 50 or so miles you'll need to take MO-72/US-67 BUS toward Fredricktown. At the roundabout (traffic circle) you'll want to continue on Missouri Highway 72, and follow to US-72/Missouri OO where you'll turn right, continuing on US-72 until you see a turnoff on Route J, you'll turn left onto Route J and then keep an eye out for Route W, which you'll take a right on. Follow Route W until you reach County Road 208 (CR 208) and follow that until it turns to a gravel/dirt road and you reach a fork in the road at Amidon Memorial Conservation Area, this time, we'll bear right and continue on CR 208!

Not far down the road from the fork, you'll find a parking lot on your left. If you "dig" (no pun originally intended) gravestones and old family graveyard plots, you can park here and search out the two small cemeteries that are located in the field. We searched for them both, but were only able to find one. We discovered it by hiking directly west of the parking lot to a small grove of cedars. There, in the shade of the evergreens were a few gravestones, to be honest, I haven't investigated those that are entombed there... That may provide another bit of an adventure.

Taking a pause by Hippie Hole in the Fall.

If you hop back in your vehicle and continue down further on CR 208 you'll come to what the area map has labeled as a "Deep Fjord-Caution". This is, in fact, an unaided crossing of the Castor River, think you're up to it? Let me begin with one quick note, never, ever, ever cross flooded, deep or rapidly moving water. Do not cross it on foot, do not cross it in a car, do not attempt upon a lamb and do not cross with green eggs and ham. In all seriousness, don't cross it, you could die. Now, with the pleasantries of possible death taken care of let's get to how you might be able to tell all your friends that you crossed the Castor River in your car! It's simple, after you've established that the water isn't too deep or flooded, find a line and then slowly cross. Don't fire it up there Evel Knievel style and gun it in an attempt to skip across, if you do that you'll run a risk of driving the water into your engine and killing it, just take it easy with slow steady pressure and poof, you'll be safely across. If it looks too deep or you're just a bit frightened of crossing a river in your car (perhaps it's the thought that the river may end up running through your car), you can safely park your car off the road and walk across if you like. In fact, if you just want to play in the water, this crossing area is a great spot to cool off and search for some crawdads hiding underneath rocks. But the real refresher lies about a half mile upstream, at a place a local swimmer we met called the "Hippie Hole".

Keep your eyes up too, you never know what may be up there!

Once you've crossed the Castor River, keep an eye out for a possible second crossing over Stannett Creek very soon after, same rules apply to this crossing, be safe please. After the short crossing of Stannett Creek look for a gravel parking lot to your left, this will be were you may begin your short trek to the Hippie Hole! The trail head begins there at the parking lot and will begin by taking you just on the outskirts of a cleared field. Here wildflower abound during the spring and birds seem to be nearly everywhere. Once to the far edge of the field you will enter into a more wooded area, here the trail is clearly visible, but be careful of exposed roots from the trees that line the trail, they can easily trip you up. This trail will wind alongside the Castor River, with a full canopy of hardwood trees surrounding you as you get closer to Hippie Hole. When the canopy opens up and you hit a gigantic solid mass of pink granite (like in the picture up top) you've arrived at the Hippie Hole. This is a great place to take a dip or even a jump or two!

Love these big pink boulders!

Once you've arrived at the Hippie Hole the trail, for the most part, ends. But don't let that stop you if you're up for a bit of adventure! We continued on, constantly keeping the river within view through the trees, heading ever northward. A local swimmer we met upon our initial arrival had told us of an old building foundation, somewhere "up there" with full finger pointing proximity, and despite our best efforts, we were unable to find it during our extended hike. However, we did find some absolutely beautiful rocks, some chock full of quartz crystals of different colors, and plenty of huge boulders to climb, jump and impersonate Spiderman upon! Also, if you're quiet (and we were), you may even walk up on some whitetail deer in this area. We came across a small herd of 5-6 as we crested a hill, and all of us had a bit of a shock! There are also plenty of squirrels, birds, small reptiles and wild turkey that play in the woods here. You could hike up to the Castor River Shut Ins by just continuing to follow the river upstream a bit over a mile or so, as well if you like.

Now, I referred to this area Hippie Hole and I'm no local. I've heard there are some that call it different names, while others have Hippie Hole in a different location all together... All I can do is count on that one local swimmer's account for the naming of this area, but of course, his directions to that concrete foundation weren't so great, so he may have been a bit off... But with cool waters to tread in and rocks to take a plunge from, I'll just call it a great old fashioned swimmin' hole!

More Information:
Amidon Memorial Conservation Area Homepage
Amidon Area Map (may want to refer to this as you drive from Fredricktown to Amidon for directions*)
Audubon Society of Missouri Amidon Bird Check List

*Note on map below... Google seems to use different terminology on some roads/rural highways, the path below should still get you to the area from St. Louis.

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