Panther Den: Don't Forget Your Map!

Panther Den Wilderness may be the smallest wilderness area in the state of Illinois, but it packs in some of the most distinctive and maze-like rock formations you may ever see! This distinctive and unique area boasts over 820 acres of land and is bordered by Crab Orchard Wilderness, which offers an additional 4050 acres of Illinois wilderness to its north. Before you read on, you may want to brush up on Wilderness Areas (Let's Get WILD) is and print yourself off a map of the area.

How To Get There
Finding Panther Den Wilderness may be, in itself, a bit of an adventure. If you have been searching for directions I'm sure you've encountered a thousand different versions out on the internet. Some talking about private land others talking about washed out creeks, heck some may even be saying you'd better just float on in from the north on one of the fingers of Devil's Kitchen Lake. I guess I'll go ahead and add another way to get there, ours was simple and fairly straight forward.

From Cape Girardeau, MO we started across the Emerson Bridge into Illinois and followed highway 146 East through Anna, IL turning left on Lick Creek Road near the outskirts of town. After traveling about eight miles down Lick Creek Road, we veered off to the left onto Grandview Road, following it until again veering left onto Hall Church Road. Follow Hall Church Road until you are able to turn right on Rocky Comfort Road, enjoy this last bit of paved road. Continue down Rocky Comfort Road for about three miles until you can make a right turn onto Panther Den ROAD. Welcome to the gravel my friend! Now, follow Panther Den ROAD for a bit over a mile or so, until you see
Panther Den LANE on the left. You'll notice this road is in pretty rough shape (or at least it was in 2013-14), keep to the right as it is a one lane road, and you will see the parking lot at the end of the road on the right.

Pay attention to the trail markers out here:
The Panther Den loop is 389,
the trail back to the lot is 371,
and the River to River Trail is 001.
See the Quick Trail Note below.

The Trail
One of the first things you may notice as you approach the trailhead is that there is a complete lack of information and maps on the Panther Den Informational Board (or at least there was on all of our visits in 2013-14). I don't know if all the information fell off, was stolen, or if a pack of wild dingos with a taste for maps and information strolled in and devoured all postings. So be sure to print off a map of the area before you leave home, read my cautionary tales below if you don't think having a map is important...

The trail itself begins as a mixture of gravel and dirt, featuring many planned switchbacks which help to reduce the wear and tear of erosion on the trail and wilderness. The switchbacks also make the hilly terrain a bit easier to traverse. The rolling downhill hike will bottom out with a small creek crossing, be alert here as we have found this a fantastic place to find local wildlife visiting for a refreshing drink. From here you'll travel up a small hill be sure to veer left at the trail intersection and that will take you to a welcome sign for the area. You can now follow the trail around the Panther Den or, better yet, go inside the magnificent sandstone formations for which the entire wilderness area is named!

Quick Trail Note:

The Panther Den loop makes use of the 389 white diamond trail markers/blazes, however these markers are sometime sparse and, I suspect, stolen by idiots. You may see markers up for 389-A and 389-B, both of which are small spurs, these spurs seem to be old, abandoned trails. My experience is that 389-A and 389-B are generally overgrown and hard to navigate (I became pretty lost on what I believe now to be 389-B). I'd suggest staying on the main 389 trail and then following the 371 trail marker back to the parking area. 001 is the designation for the River To River Trail, which runs through and connects Panther Den Wilderness and Crab Orchard Wilderness.

Enter The Den!

One of the many "rooms" within the
Panther Den rock formations.

Inside Panther Den, you'll find these huge sandstone formations seem to form rooms, hallways, and even floors. Some of these formations are so angular that you may have an "Ancient Aliens" like feeling, wondering if perhaps some ancient astronauts visited the area eons ago in order to lay down rock foundations and rooms to inhabit. One particular "room" in Panther Den seems to even have a poured foundation. In reality though, aliens didn't have anything to do with it, all of the formations are natural... Or are they?

You can easily spend hours inside of Panther Den, leaping from cliff to cliff, poking into every crack and crag, squeezing through narrow crevices and splits or just running your hands over the smoothness of the sandstone. There are small waterfalls to be discovered, side trails to be explored, cairns to be constructed and plenty of places to hide as well; so you can jump out and scare the wits out of your friends and family. And, although you won't find any panthers in Panther Den (at least not since the 1870's) you may spot some other local wildlife such as whitetail deer, turkey, muskrats, beaver, and skunks. If you are really lucky, you may even get a rare glimpse of a bobcat or mink. So be sure to keep your eyes peeled!

Be sure to set a meeting place up.
Just in case.

You will also find many sandstone "coveys" carved into the rock in the area around Panther Den. These sandstone overhangs offer shelter to an uncommon wildflower, French's shooting star (Dodecatheon frenchii). Unfortunately we didn't spot a single one on any of our hikes. But, if you would like to see or find one I would suggest hitting the area in May or June and seeking out sandstone overhangs near running water. Although the French's shooting star is not currently on Illinois Threatened and Endangered list, it is still considered a sensitive species in the state. So if you are lucky enough to find a colony of these beautiful little wildflowers, please take only pictures so that others may be able to enjoy their beauty as well.

You may also want to stick together while exploring the inside of the formations, or at the least set a place and time to meet up in case someone gets separated. It is very easy to get lost within the maze-like formations of Panther Den. Children (and parents) may freak out if they suddenly find themselves separated from the rest of the group. If you become horribly lost remember that a distress signal in the woods consists of three successive sounds; be they yells, shots, claps, whistles, or any other signal.

Camping
There is so much to be explored in Panther Den that you may even consider camping within the area. If you do, remember that you are within a wilderness area. You do not need a permit and the US Forest Service asks only that you practice "Leave No Trace" ethics and camp a minimum of 300 feet from any established trails. Most of the "user" camps that you will encounter are far too close to established trails and have left obvious marks on the landscape. You are encouraged not to use these campsites so that these overused areas may recover. Of course, you may want to read up on what a wilderness is and always remember to practice your very best Wilderness Manners.

Now that I've told you of how beautiful and truly distinct Panther Den Wilderness is, I'd like to give you two quick stories of warning. 

Story One: Our First Trip

On our first outing at Panther Den Wilderness we became lost. Very lost. Playing victim to many of the "trails" as we ventured further into the wilderness. We had inadvertently stumbled upon an old, abandoned equestrian trail that twisted and turned through rugged terrain. As I continued to notice the decline in the quality of the trail, I became (silently) alarmed. I could tell we were no longer on an established trail and we had taken so many lefts and rights, I could not recall from which way we had come. Luckily I had my phone, turned off, in my pocket. No bars. We continued to hike and I continued to quietly check my phone. A bar lit. I stopped and instantly hit the button for Google Maps. Once it loaded I found our heading and took note of where the trailhead was on that small, smart phone screen. Had it not been for that stroke of luck we may have been lost for hours in Panther Den Wilderness. This is the experience that taught me to never, ever, set out on a trail without a map and an idea of the route I wish to travel.

Story Two: Stranger on the Road

Panther Den Wilderness is for tree lovers...

On our second visit to Panther Den Wilderness we made our way down the gravel road toward Panther Den Wilderness, when we noticed a man wandering aimlessly nearly a mile from the trailhead. It was apparent to me that he was lost and I slowed down to see if he needed any assistance. He sheepishly admitted to us that he too had fell victim to one of the "false" trails of Panther Den and as we drove him back to the trailhead, he told us he had been wandering for hours, without a phone or map, happening upon the road by pure chance. I could tell he was embarrassed, as I had been just a few months prior, of becoming so lost. He was an outdoorsman, confident in his abilities to maintain a heading and follow a trail, it was this over confidence (which I too had suffered) that led to his unintended side adventure, and his catching a ride with us back to his truck. His last words to us were, "I can never let my wife know about this."

So now, please, take this map. Print it. Fold it. Put it in your pocket. It's simple. If you plan to visit Panther Den Wilderness and truly explore the area I cannot stress the importance of having a map on hand enough. Safely experiencing the beauty and sheer uniqueness of the area is worth the ink!


More Information:
CLICK HERE AND PRINT THIS MAP!
Visit Local Treks on facebook!
Wilderness Areas: Let's Get WILD!
Tips: How To Take A Great Dayhike  
Illinois Wildflowers (online guide with pictures)
A Conservation Assessment for the French's Shooting Star (warning: good read, pretty scientific)
National Geographic "Backyard Bird Identifier"

Groovin' At Hippie Hole: Amidon Memorial Conservation Area

Looking downstream at the Hippie Hole

Taking the Right Fork...
Just a few weeks ago I did a short write up on the Castor River Shut Ins of Amidon, which were located just off the left fork in the road as we entered the Amidon Memorial Conservation Area. It was a quick jaunt down the well groomed and maintained trail to get a look at those gorgeous, smooth pink granite boulders that had been shaped and sculpted for years by the Castor River. After finishing the Jekyll and Hyde trail that looped the left area, I left a little "cliff hanger"... What was down the right fork?

A firestruck tree we found searching
for the mystery concrete foundation.

Well, I suppose I'll retrace my steps a bit, and get you out to the area again with a bit of old fashioned written directions. From St. Louis, you'll take I-55 South to US 67 South towards Bonne Terre/Farmington. After about 50 or so miles you'll need to take MO-72/US-67 BUS toward Fredricktown. At the roundabout (traffic circle) you'll want to continue on Missouri Highway 72, and follow to US-72/Missouri OO where you'll turn right, continuing on US-72 until you see a turnoff on Route J, you'll turn left onto Route J and then keep an eye out for Route W, which you'll take a right on. Follow Route W until you reach County Road 208 (CR 208) and follow that until it turns to a gravel/dirt road and you reach a fork in the road at Amidon Memorial Conservation Area, this time, we'll bear right and continue on CR 208!

Not far down the road from the fork, you'll find a parking lot on your left. If you "dig" (no pun originally intended) gravestones and old family graveyard plots, you can park here and search out the two small cemeteries that are located in the field. We searched for them both, but were only able to find one. We discovered it by hiking directly west of the parking lot to a small grove of cedars. There, in the shade of the evergreens were a few gravestones, to be honest, I haven't investigated those that are entombed there... That may provide another bit of an adventure.

Taking a pause by Hippie Hole in the Fall.

If you hop back in your vehicle and continue down further on CR 208 you'll come to what the area map has labeled as a "Deep Fjord-Caution". This is, in fact, an unaided crossing of the Castor River, think you're up to it? Let me begin with one quick note, never, ever, ever cross flooded, deep or rapidly moving water. Do not cross it on foot, do not cross it in a car, do not attempt upon a lamb and do not cross with green eggs and ham. In all seriousness, don't cross it, you could die. Now, with the pleasantries of possible death taken care of let's get to how you might be able to tell all your friends that you crossed the Castor River in your car! It's simple, after you've established that the water isn't too deep or flooded, find a line and then slowly cross. Don't fire it up there Evel Knievel style and gun it in an attempt to skip across, if you do that you'll run a risk of driving the water into your engine and killing it, just take it easy with slow steady pressure and poof, you'll be safely across. If it looks too deep or you're just a bit frightened of crossing a river in your car (perhaps it's the thought that the river may end up running through your car), you can safely park your car off the road and walk across if you like. In fact, if you just want to play in the water, this crossing area is a great spot to cool off and search for some crawdads hiding underneath rocks. But the real refresher lies about a half mile upstream, at a place a local swimmer we met called the "Hippie Hole".

Keep your eyes up too, you never know what may be up there!

Once you've crossed the Castor River, keep an eye out for a possible second crossing over Stannett Creek very soon after, same rules apply to this crossing, be safe please. After the short crossing of Stannett Creek look for a gravel parking lot to your left, this will be were you may begin your short trek to the Hippie Hole! The trail head begins there at the parking lot and will begin by taking you just on the outskirts of a cleared field. Here wildflower abound during the spring and birds seem to be nearly everywhere. Once to the far edge of the field you will enter into a more wooded area, here the trail is clearly visible, but be careful of exposed roots from the trees that line the trail, they can easily trip you up. This trail will wind alongside the Castor River, with a full canopy of hardwood trees surrounding you as you get closer to Hippie Hole. When the canopy opens up and you hit a gigantic solid mass of pink granite (like in the picture up top) you've arrived at the Hippie Hole. This is a great place to take a dip or even a jump or two!

Love these big pink boulders!

Once you've arrived at the Hippie Hole the trail, for the most part, ends. But don't let that stop you if you're up for a bit of adventure! We continued on, constantly keeping the river within view through the trees, heading ever northward. A local swimmer we met upon our initial arrival had told us of an old building foundation, somewhere "up there" with full finger pointing proximity, and despite our best efforts, we were unable to find it during our extended hike. However, we did find some absolutely beautiful rocks, some chock full of quartz crystals of different colors, and plenty of huge boulders to climb, jump and impersonate Spiderman upon! Also, if you're quiet (and we were), you may even walk up on some whitetail deer in this area. We came across a small herd of 5-6 as we crested a hill, and all of us had a bit of a shock! There are also plenty of squirrels, birds, small reptiles and wild turkey that play in the woods here. You could hike up to the Castor River Shut Ins by just continuing to follow the river upstream a bit over a mile or so, as well if you like.

Now, I referred to this area Hippie Hole and I'm no local. I've heard there are some that call it different names, while others have Hippie Hole in a different location all together... All I can do is count on that one local swimmer's account for the naming of this area, but of course, his directions to that concrete foundation weren't so great, so he may have been a bit off... But with cool waters to tread in and rocks to take a plunge from, I'll just call it a great old fashioned swimmin' hole!

More Information:
Amidon Memorial Conservation Area Homepage
Amidon Area Map (may want to refer to this as you drive from Fredricktown to Amidon for directions*)
Audubon Society of Missouri Amidon Bird Check List

*Note on map below... Google seems to use different terminology on some roads/rural highways, the path below should still get you to the area from St. Louis.

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