Washington State Park: Take 1000 Steps Back In Time

Washington State Park in DeSoto, Missouri, is absolutely amazing. Today the park features a park store, water craft rentals (canoes, rafts, tubes, and kayaks), gravel river banks to river swim from, rental cabins, campgrounds, swimming pool, playgrounds, trails and so much more; it is hard to imagine that it was once home to a group of Mississippian Indians over 600 years ago. It was these Native Americans that literally left their mark on the area in the form of fantastic petroglyphs, which are (for the most part) still undecipherable even today and the petroglyphs here make up 2/3 of the known Missouri carvings! For the outdoor trekkers you'll find the park is home to three trails: the 1.5 mile 1000 Steps Trail, the 2.5 mile Opossum Trail and the 6 mile Rockywood Trail (backpackers will find a camp on this trail). Although the family and I wanted to "hit em all", for our visit, we concentrated on taking time exploring the petroglyphs, park amenities and then took foot to the 1000 Step Trail.

The 1000 Steps Trail begins just across
the lot from the Thunderbird Lodge.

To reach the 1000 Step Trail follow the signs to the Thunderbird Lodge, which is an outstanding example of the African American Civil Conservation Corps handiwork, and park in the lot there. Now, I absolutely must give out a bit history here, because this trail is so unique and beautiful that credit simply has to be given to the Civil Conservation Corps (CCC). The African American Civil Conservation Corps Company 1743 began developing the park land soon after the land was aquired in 1936. Without their skill and stone-masonry most of the buildings (including the Thunderbird Lodge where the company's main camp was located) would not exist and the 1000 Steps Trail would not have a single hand carved step to its name. You will pass by many examples of their work throughout the park, but will find three awesome examples on this hike; Thunderbird Lodge, the steps themselves on the trail and a gorgeous overlook shelter that practically begs you to take a photo of the Big River and the lush valley that contains the float-tastic river. These buildings were placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1985. Ok, now let's get to hiking!

The steps blend perfectly with the woods,
complimenting them rather than competing.

After checking out the Thunderbird Lodge, and maybe booking a float trip for later, you will quickly find the trail head for the 1000 Step Trail just across the parking lot from the lodge. The hike begins quite easy, with a well maintained dirt path (watch out for tree roots) that skirts the road and provides a ground level view of the Big River out in the distance. You will soon reach the loop portion of the trail where we took the left path and followed the Yellow (1000 Step Trail) Blazes. The trees that quickly envelop you are large and seemingly ancient, providing much needed shade for a summer's hike and (I would imagine) would provide a beautiful palate of oranges, reds and yellows during the fall. As we progressed you will see small examples of the CCC's attention to detail, with rocks that line the trail fading in and out, and small bridges that cross spans that are easy to hop. As you continue on and the Big River begins to disappear and the hardwood and pine woods surround you, the first of many CCC placed steps will reveal themselves, yet seem dissolve into the very environment in which they are contained, a perfect example of man working in coordination with nature. Now, while climbing these steps you will quickly notice the carpet of moss, lichens and plant-life, these may make the steps slippery so climb with a touch of caution.

As you make your way on the trail (primarily uphill that is), you may find turkey, deer, mischievous squirrels and other small mammals, as well as small toads and frogs (always a family favorite!), but keep a particular keen eye out during summer as the eastern collared lizard can be found skittering and leaping, upright on their hind legs, from rock to rock. The hardwood forest, consisting of towering Oak, Hickory, Kentucky coffee, sugar maple and slippery elm, has a good undergrowth of pawpaw trees, and if you're lucky you may even find a bit of fruit on one of those pawpaws (if the squirrels and deer haven't found them first). About halfway along the loop, the forest will begin to thin as you approach an opening near the nature center and the restrooms (both constructed by the CCC), during this bit of the hike you may find some wonderful wildflowers, including: Blue-Eyed Marys, Bluebells, Trilliums, Violets and Poppies a particularly lucky and keen eye may even find a rare Primrose, Fremont's Leather Flower and the ever so delicate Blue-Violet Nemastylis.

After searching for wildflowers and re-emerging into the forest, be sure to take the right fork to stay on the 1000 Steps Trail, unless you're looking for a place to picnic, then head left, as it takes you to a nice picnic shelter. As you continue on the trail you will soon come to one of the best scenic overlooks I've visited. The view allows for a panoramic glimpse of the Big River and the valley through which it runs and, when under clear blue skies that contrast the lush green of the valley, it's a hard view to beat. Better yet, you can enjoy the view from the quaint CCC constructed overlook building, which melds in perfectly with the surrounding bluffs upon which the site rests. At the overlook building you can also catch a refreshing breeze and closely examine the skill with which each block was cut, placed and set.

You may even "off trail" as small trail runs near the overlook.

After giving your soul a chance to absorb a bit of the Big River horizon, you can continue down the trail which will take you down a dolomite bluff, where rocks have separated from the face and some have tumbled onto the path. Watch your footing here as the rocks can easily slide out from underfoot and send you swiftly to the sitting position, perhaps bruising your pride and your tailbone. As you continue, be sure to look at the path itself, the small rocks imbedded and loose on the trail may be hiding a plethora of quartz crystals in their geode like folds and holes. Just before the end of the trail there is a perfect place to sit on the steps and simply take in the last bits of the serenity that surrounds you, breathe it in, take a few pictures and head back to the trail head.

After hiking the 1000 Steps Trail, and really being introduced to all the outstanding things to do in the park, we can't wait to return to Washington State Park. Next up with most likely be a backpacking trip through Rockywood Trail to view the quarry used by the CCC for the local buildings and a search for the elusive Missouri tarantula!

The overlook absolutely BEGS you to take photos here!

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More Information:
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City of DeSoto, Missouri Webpage
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A BIG Little Hike: Little Grand Canyon, Illinois

Little Grand Canyon, tucked away in the Shawnee National Forest, was one of my very favorite hiking spots back in college. I discovered it on a field trip in my botany class back in 1998, I was impressed with the lush green beauty of the area, the "ruggedness" of the 3.6 mile hike and the relative feeling of remoteness as our instructor led class traversed the sandstone walled canyon trail in search of endangered local plant species. Would I feel the same sense of remoteness, would I encounter the same beauty, would the trail seem as "rugged" in a 2011 revisit with my family?

Before I get too far in, allow me add a little bit more to our 2011 revisit of the Little Grand Canyon, as many in the Midwest (particularly those who live in areas that are near the Mississippi River) will know, this area is near the historic flood levels that occurred in 2011 and that did cause a bit of issue with our hike. The issue was, we couldn't make the full loop. Upon traveling to the bottom of the canyon, we hiked as far as we could, swarmed by mosquitoes, up to our thighs in mud, hoping constantly that we "were through the worst of it"... We finally were forced to backtrack when our hairy little buddy couldn't go any further due to the depth and consistency of the mud. However, given all of this, we still LOVED this area and I can't wait to return!

As we pulled into the parking lot we were greeted with what is becoming a rare sight at state and national parks, a bathroom and a well marked map of the area. However, we should have paid a bit more attention to the sign posted right next to the map exclaiming: "Trail Impassible Due To High Water!". But come on, that's for chumps, right? So we grabbed our walking sticks and prepared for our first foray as a family out into a small portion of the Shawnee National Forest.

The initial trail from the parking lot is fairly easy going, consisting of a nice, wide, gravel trail that will lead the wanderer to the beginning of a 365 foot descent into the Little Grand Canyon. This portion of the trail is well maintained and well traversed and offers much to see in the way of trees and undergrowth. Oak and Hickory trees line the trail and, during our visit, they even lay across the trail which may inhibit some with disabilities from traveling further. We took our time walking this portion, pausing to identify some plants such as poison ivy (which my daughter was unfamiliar with), broad leafed ferns and the Celandine Poppy (Wicked Witch of the West: Poppies... Poppies. Poppies will put them to sleep. Sleeeeep. Now they'll sleeeeep!).

As the gravel ends your descent will begin and I'll provide you a warning, it can be slick, and I'm not being an overcautious old man here, it is slicker than snot in some spots especially following any rain. So, be sure to watch your footing, even on the steps that are carved into the sandstone, because if you slip in some areas you're in for a pretty rapid fall and possibly a not-so-fun slide ride to the bottom. But this also adds to the "ruggedness" of the trail, the little bit of slip fear that may enter your brain make this portion of the trail seem adventurous to some, perhaps even providing a bit of a story for those who haven't yet been out to the area.

As we traveled down to the canyon floor, we passed mini waterfalls, grottoes, scurried across worn ledges and even did a few impressions of Sylvester Stallone from Cliffhanger, acting like we could fall at any minute. The steady sound of the water running through the area and birds calling were all that we could hear, and my mind went back to my class hike and the feeling as though we were the only ones out there. We paid special attention to the hand and foot holds carved into the sandstone by the Civilian Conservation Corps during the the Great Depression. I searched for more broad leafed ferns on the way down and added to the list a few liverworts and hairy cap moss. We kept an eye out for local wildlife too, and encountered a little guy we nicknamed the "Hypno-Toad" and we were treated to a unique gathering of butterflies just as we reached the canyon floor.

Upon reaching the canyon floor, the now dirt trail, leveled out and we instantly noticed the canyon walls, towering over 100 foot overhead. This is also where the mosquitoes began their relentless assault, dive-bombing and attacking in mass. They were of the large, black variety and you could actually feel each bite. I don't believe they are permanent residents to the area, at least not in the numbers we encountered, but I highly recommend a few sprays of a reliable mosquito repellent prior to taking this hike, better safe than swarmed... We followed the White Diamond marked trail for as long as were able, finally having to backtrack due to mud that was just too deep for our sheltie, Hudson, to continue on. As we backtracked, I made sure that we poked into a few of the overhangs and crags to see if we could discover any other little hidden gems such as this Blue Diamond marked tree, a fallen tree missing its center and a few autographs we found in a shallow cave carved into the canyon stone.

We took a second to wash up and then began our journey back up the Little Grand Canyon, disappointed that we couldn't make the loop this time, but excited for the chance to return and complete it then.

Since we visited in 2011, there was a forest fire that burned around 18 acres of the area located one quarter of a mile from the trail head in April of 2013. There is more information at the Southern Illinoisan, The Southeast Missourian and WPSD (NBC).

More of our pictures from the area are available on my Flickr Page


Find More Information (click to visit):
Shawnee National Forest (Little Grand Canyon)
Botany in Natural Areas of Southern Illinois


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Latitude: 37.68028
Longitude: -89.39472