Taum Sauk Mountain State Park: Welcome to the Top of Missouri!

A little over a year ago I took on "Big Buford"... No, not the delicious arterial clogging burger they sell at Rally's/Checkers, but Buford Mountain, located just a few miles outside of Ironton, Mo. Buford Mountain is the 3rd highest point in Missouri and was a well earned victory as I took on it's 10.6 mile loop trail and enjoyed every single second of it. But I have to admit, the very second I finished the Buford Mountain trail loop and I began my ride home my mind was instantly alight with visions of taking on Taum Sauk Mountain, which is officially Missouri's highest point. I needed to make some calls, I would need oxygen, heavy parkas and perhaps a Sherpa or two... Right?

No oxygen tanks or Sherpa needed...

Taum Sauk Mountain makes up one of many mountains found in the St. Francois mountain range created by a Precambrian igneous uplift that is far, far older than the Appalachians. In fact, many geologists believe that Taum Sauk may be one of the few areas within the United States that has never been covered by ancient seas, most likely existing as islands during that time. Topping out at 1,772 feet, accomplishing Taum Sauk's summit was a bit easier than cresting Big Buford. To reach the official top of Missouri it was actually a short walk from the parking lot, only 1,000 feet down a paved trail, to a granite marker near a large boulder. I thought that may rob a bit of the "coolness" from the accomplishment, but honestly... It didn't. I was still at the top of Missouri, so a selfie was in order. But soon I thought, I really came to hike with my furry friend Hyatt, what should we do, where can we go? And it was then that I remembered, Taum Sauk Mountain State Park hosts not only the highest point in all of Missouri, but it also contains the state's highest waterfall, Mina Sauk Falls and I had heard tail that this trail was not quite as "accessible". So, after snapping a few pictures we made our way down the trail, anxious to view the falls.

Want to "earn it"? Take the Mina Sauk Falls trail...

I'll reiterate my desire to have a bit of a hike so that my hiker pride would feel as though the accomplishment of visiting Taum Sauk Mountain was not one of great ease, but earned through the sweat of my brow and the protesting of calves and quads. As I followed the trail to Mina Sauk Falls, it became apparent that this hike would be earned as the trail faded from paved trail, to rock lined trail, to gravel trail and finally to a foot worn path of Earth, leading through the forest toward our watery goal. Now, those who are "in the know" realize that Mina Sauk Falls only run in wet weather, which is one of the reasons I timed my trip here after we had received some rain during the week, so that foot worn path became very, very sloppy. In spots the trail greedily ate my entire shoe, replying only with a "splooch" as I pried my foot from its grip. My hairy buddy however, was absolutely in his element, galloping and prancing in the mud and muck as I could only think about how much fun it would be driving home with a wet and muddy pooch...

From the mud to stone...

The muddy, Oak and Hickory lined wooded trail gave way to our first glade, where a keen eyed hiker may find life better suited for a desert lying about the warm, barren rock. Lizards normally dart across this empty expanse, searching for their insect prey. But it was far too cold for our reptile friends to be emerging just yet. So we enjoyed the melodies of the feathered inhabitants, which drifted easily to our ears, serenading us as we made our way over the stony floor. As we moved forward along the trail I had to pay particular attention to my footing as the rock was very slippery in spots due to the rain water still draining from the mountain, so please, pay particular attention here for wet spots. I will readily admit, it was very hard to look down at my feet, concentrating on my footing with such a stunning view of the Arcadia Valley sweeping in a nearly full 360 panorama. I had to stop, pause and take in an eyeful, so I found myself a nice boulder to perch on and enjoyed a cool drink of water, allowing all my senses to be filled, enjoying the view as the songbirds created the score for this outstanding scene. But my hairy buddy was ready to go, so I was brought back to task by wet tongue and muddy paws upon me. Before we pressed on though I had to snap a photo... or two.

Onward to Mina Sauk Falls

The trail to the falls continued to waver from earth to rock and back again as it continued downhill, and was fairly well marked. However, at one particular point there seemed the foot worn trail led straight, and had it not been for a well placed timber, I would have missed my turn to remain on the trail, so do pay attention as the trail may fade in and out in spots. As the path began to follow the gentle curves of the mountain I could hear rushing water and my mind was awash in anticipation of what was just out of sight. As the trail led slightly back uphill and around a huge, precariously perched boulder, I caught my first sight of Mina Sauk Falls and the crystal clear waters cascading from the top of the fall, stream over a series of ledges and finally end its journey down 132 below. There is something about a waterfall that fills not only my senses, but also my soul. Honestly, I feel completely at peace and find absolute solace in listening intently to the crashing of the water while being cooled by the mist rising from the impact. After soaking in the falls, I realized that I had forgotten a few things, most notably the filter I use to create the cascading fall pictures and my tripod, however the falls washed away any concern of that and I snapped the photos I could with my camera but left with even more vivid pictures taken with my mind's eye. I followed the Ozark Trail down the mountain, being very careful to avoid loose and wet rock in order to gain different perspectives on the falls. It was at the base of those falls that I simply sat, for how long I honestly don't know, and watched the falls simply...  fall. From here I could carry on for another mile and see another great wonder of the area, the Devil's Tollgate or journey another ten miles to reach Johnson's Shut Ins, but I was running short on time, so I began my ascent back up to the top of Mina Sauk Falls to begin my uphill return hike.

A tragic legend for the beautiful falls

As I made my way back down the mile and a half trail, I thought of the legend of Mina Sauk Falls. How the chief, Sauk-Ton-Qua and the Piankashaw Indians once called this wondrous land home. In fact it was chief Sauk-Ton-Qua for which this mountain was named, who the white man called Taum Sauk, because his name was hard to pronounce. The Piankashaw lived in peace on these lands, but would fiercely repel any invasions made by other tribes, in particular the advancements of the Osage. It was said that Sauk-Ton-Qua had a beautiful daughter, Mina Sauk, who fell in love with an Osage warrior. One day Mina Sauk was caught in the young Osage warriors arms and taken prisoner. Sauk-Ton-Qua sentenced the young man to death, despite his daughter's pleas to spare his life. It is said that later that day the young man was executed on the very slopes of Taum Sauk Mountain. He was tossed from the crest of the mountain, crashing from ledge to ledge below with the spears of warriors, until finally coming to rest at the base of the mountain, battered, bleeding and dying. As Mina Sauk watched her lover she could no longer contain her grief and as her Osage suitor lie at the bottom of the mountain, breathing his last breaths, she cast herself from the summit as well, plunging over Taum Sauk's ledges to her death. It was then, that the great spirit became so moved by the lovers deaths that the very Earth trembled and shook, and Taum Sauk Mountain began to crack. Then a flood of water streamed forth, flowing over the very same stones as the lovers, washing away their blood. Such a tragic legend to explain such beauty... There are other versions of this legend, some change the name of the daughter, others create the falls with a thunderous lightning bolt, but all seem to suggest the falls were created by the great spirit's response to the treatment of the young lovers.

Pro-Tips for Taum Sauk Mountain State Park

I truly enjoyed every second I spent at Taum Sauk Mountain, from the thrill of being taller than every single Missourian for a few brief seconds to experiencing the peace that streams from Mina Sauk Falls (despite the star crossed legend) I can't recommend this park enough. I would suggest that you aim to visit the park after there has been a period of rain, especially if you want to see Mina Sauk Falls and snatch your own moment of zen from this busy, noisy world. Be sure to wear a comfortable pair of shoes that you don't mind getting absolutely covered in mud and muck. Which brings me to this... Bring a towel for your car, especially if you are bringing a four legged companion, I'm still finding bits and pieces of Taum Sauk Mountain in my truck. Also, keep an eye out for the watchtower. I didn't see it, or know it existed until I had finished my hike, returned home and began to type up this entry. I'll certainly be looking to take some shots from it on my next visit! Finally, be sure you have enough time. I didn't expect the hike to Mina Sauk to take as long as it did, and once there I didn't have enough time to press on to the Devil's Tollgate. The area is rich in wildlife, views, sights and sounds so be sure to provide yourself ample time to really take it all in.

I can't wait to go back to Taum Sauk Mountain and I will certainly make time to search for the watchtower and also make my way further down the Ozark Trail to see the Devil's Tollgate. I hope you enjoyed the write up about the area and let me know if you have any questions or suggestions down there in the comments. As always, happy trails to you!

Directions


More Information:
Local Treks on facebook 

MO State Parks: Taum Sauk Mountain Webpage
MO State Parks: Taum Sauk Mountain Hiking Trails
MO State Parks: Mina Sauk Hiking Trail Map
MO State Parks: Taum Sauk Section of the Ozark Trail Map
Missouri Department of Conservation: Taum Sauk Mountain Webpage

Buford Mountain Conservation Area: Take Time To Take It Slow

In today's world it seems nearly everything moves fast and sometimes it may seem to move too fast. The week may speed by in a blur, leaving you to wonder... What did I do this week? What did I accomplish? Where are my keys? After a week like this, it's time to slow down. Way down. I just so happen to know that Buford Mountain Conservation Area is an extraordinary place to do it, and I will assure you, when you've finished the 10.6 mile loop you'll know what you did, what you accomplished, but your keys... Well, that's on you.

The (3rd) Top of Missouri: Big Buford

Keep an eye out for this low stone wall as you scale Big Buford.

Buford Mountain Conservation Area is located just a few miles North of Ironton, Missouri off of the inconspicuous Route U. The mountain itself is actually more of a ridge, accentuated by a series of five high points along its spine. The first, and tallest point, on the trail has been nicknamed "Big Buford". As you climb its steep, rocky sides, keep an eye out for an old stone wall, evidence that early homesteaders laid claim to this area at one time, stone by stone. Big Buford peaks at 1740 feet above sea level, which happens to lay its claim to the 3rd highest peak in the state. How's that for a bit of an accomplishment? Hey, you didn't need any oxygen or Sherpas! Sure, not everyone may hold that to be a true Herculean feat, but I'll tell you what; after making the nearly 700 foot ascent to the wooded top of Big Buford over the winding rock and dirt surfaced trail, I'm pretty sure you'll feel a true sense of triumph. However, that sense of triumph may be slightly trumped by the fact that Big Buford is wooded, pretty heavily wooded in fact, and that makes for no sweeping vistas, no awe inspiring horizon to scan, no I Can See for Miles and Miles (I love The Who, don't you?) moment. But wait... Just put The Who on pause for a moment, because your Miles and Miles view exists just a bit further down the trail at a place called Bald Knob.

The "Moonscape": Peak Two

As you make your way toward the spectacular view at Bald Knob, you will first make your way over two more peaks and these aren't just "hike over" territory either. As you make your way down from Big Buford, keep your eyes open for the first of six wildlife watering holes which line this trail, placed there due to the lack of any real natural water source in the area. As the trail begins to once again gain elevation, you will find yourself near the second overall peak on the trail. It is here that the dense hardwood begins to make way for a very interesting formation of rock. It is here, at a touch over 1680 feet in elevation that the hardened granite stone of which the mountain is primarily composed of, known as ryholite, is completely exposed giving you access to your first encounter with one of a few "glades" located on the trail's route. It is this exposure that gave me a sense of what it must feel like to hike a bit on the moon, there is little vegetation, save for some lichen and moss growth upon the smooth stone floor, and I watched as the fall foliage, free from their tree moorings, swept across the desert like surface. I spent a few minutes here, one due to it being so beautifully stark and two... Well, I was a bit tired, that was two peaks one at 1740 and this one at 1680, in the span of about a mile.

The Fork: Peak Three

As you start descending from the "moonscape" second peak, you'll make your way past another wildlife watering hole and find yourself climbing back to around 1600 feet, by now I hope you've realized this trail is a quad burner. This third peak is similar to what you found at the top of Big Buford, a fairly heavily wooded peak with some large rocks scattered here and there. As you crest this third peak, you will soon find yourself at a fork in the trail that marks the beginning of the Buford Mountain loop. It is at this junction that you can continue left (Northwest) and head to Bald Knob or right (Northeast). Most visitors certainly bear on to the left trail and make their way toward the gorgeous view from Bald Knob, and that is the way I took. The trail is marked with directional arrows at this point too, although they may be somewhat obscured by forest growth. I'll be honest with you here as well, many hikers do not take the full 10.6 loop hike at Buford Mountain, many hike to Bald Knob and back, putting the total mileage at closer to 6.6 miles, which is still a pretty decent hike.

The View: Bald Knob

As you begin your climb up the fourth peak, you can begin to cue "Miles and Miles", because the forest canopy begins to quickly thin, and you enter another beautiful glade area as you near the top of Bald Knob. But, before you get to the official scenic overlook, you may find a less worn trail that leads off slightly to the West, following that faint trail led me to a wonderful appetizer of a view of the Belleview Valley below, complete with a small fire pit and boulders to perch upon. In fact, I thought I had stumbled upon the official Bald Knob view here and took a TON of pictures, not realizing that the actual infamous vista was really a few more yards to the North.

However, if you decide to stick to the main trail only, don't be worried, as you approach Bald Knob you will once again begin to real Bald Knob overlook. It is at this overlook, at this time, no doubt with "Miles and Miles" playing softly through your earbuds, that you will be granted one heck of a view. A view that stretches over miles of the Belleview Valley will sprawl below you and if you've made this trek in late October you nay be treated with the brilliant fall pallet of oranges, reds, tans, and violets of the foliage. Quite simply THIS is the view you are looking for, and it is gorgeous. The overlook comes complete with a "posing" boulder, which will allow you to gain even a bit more elevation from which to survey your new kingdom from 1560 feet above sea level and maybe even snap a selfie or two. Even my hairy hiking buddy, Hyatt, had to get in on the view, he perched on the boulder, flashed me a toothy smile and I just had to take his picture...
see markers and signage. In fact, there is a rather large sign, complete with arrow that directs you quite well to just the right spot to take it all in.

The Rest: Peak Five & The Valley

Can you spot the 4-pointer?

I'll be honest, after the view from Bald Knob the rest of the hike had a hard time keeping up. But honestly, I loved this hike. I had a hard time saying goodbye to the sweeping view offered at Bald Knob, but eventually made my way down the trail, passing another wildlife watering hole, and then back up to the fifth peak. At the top of peak five, many of the trees appeared dead, with brittle branches covered in lichens and moss, but the undergrowth was thick with many new saplings quickly reaching their way to the sun. I continued on and began to descend from the fifth peak and into the valley, which would comprise a good portion of the back side of the loop. As I neared the bottom, I was greeted by a large grove of cedars, and it was here that I nearly missed my turn to stay on the loop. There was a small arrow pointing to the East, but I missed it, luckily I caught a small break in identifying the trail seemed to split here. The odd thing about the split was that the "wrong" trail was better worn than the trail that continued the loop.

As I made my way through the valley, I concentrated on just taking it slow and taking it all in. Then, I came to notice a great deal of wildlife activity around me. Squirrels twittered at me from their lofty tree homes, I heard turkeys clucking in the distance and I was even lucky enough to happen upon a small four-point buck who was out grazing the plentiful acorns as noon neared. Which brings me to a quick warning, the MDC does allow hunting in this area, particularly hunting of squirrel, turkey and deer, so please be aware of any possible Missouri hunting seasons as you may want to postpone your hike or tread a bit more carefully and brightly than usual at those times.

Directions:

More Information:

Local Treks on facebook 
My Buford Mountain Flickr Album: More snaps from my hike through the area
Buford Mountain Conservation Area Summary Page: MDC Information
Buford Mountain Area Map: Provided by the MDC
Buford Mountain Area Information: Provided by the MDC

Google My Tracks Information:

Giant City State Park: Stonefort Nature Trail

Fried Chicken. More importantly, and according to a family friend, the World's Very Best Fried Chicken served in an all you can eat family style. That, is what truly brought me to Giant City State Park, located just outside of Carbondale, IL. But what I found, besides the absolutely delicious fried chicken, was an astoundingly gorgeous and completely unique area, filled with a hiker's wish list of things to do, see, explore and, of course, eat!

With so many different trails to explore in Giant City State Park I've decided to break them up into more easily "digestible" single review trails, starting here with the Stonefort Nature Trail...

We began our whole excursion in Giant City State Park pondering exactly what a "Stonefort" was, and since we all had a different idea of what it may actually be we decided to make the Stonefort Nature Trail our first official stop. Little did we know, but we actually caught a glimpse of the Stonefort Nature Trail's breathtaking observation point from atop an 80 foot sandstone bluff as we entered the main park.

So, Exactly What Is A "Stonefort"?

This one-third of a mile loop trail took us on a tour of an ancient "stonefort", one of ten wall-like structures, constructed entirely of heavy stone, believed to have been erected in the Late Woodland period between 600AD - 900AD in Southern Illinois. Each of these ancient arrangements have been discovered on top of hills or promontories and were once believed to have been used as some type of stone fortification, thus giving them the name "Stonefort". These unique walls, consisting of heavy stones, are now believed to have been constructed as meeting places or perhaps ceremonial locations. The original wall that sat atop this particular trail was actually removed, dismantled by early European settlers to the area, who used the heavy stones as building materials. The low stone base is all that really remains of the original site, however, in 1934 the Civilian Conservation Corps (whom I can't thank enough) rebuilt the wall into the site that we see today. During the reconstruction of the wall, the CCC found many Native American artifacts including a good deal of pottery. "I personally love sites like this that carry that hint of ancient mystery, sites such as this and Rock Pile Mountain always pique my curiosity of early Native Americans and, while marveling at their accomplishments and ingenuity, I also find myself theorizing on what these sites may have been used for.

But What About The Actual Trail?

The Stonefort Nature Trail itself is well worn, with many roots and rocks embedded in its surface, which some may find a bit difficult to walk on. The trail also winds it's way up the side of a small hill, where you instantly come upon the structure itself upon arriving at the top. If you continue the loop, around the top of the hill, you will come to a spectacular overlook from an 80 foot sandstone bluff which overlooks the park's entrance. A word of warning for those of you with small children and faint hearts, it is a STEEP, LONG drop to the bottom of this bluff and there are no handrails. The trail also narrows a bit here making it a somewhat dangerous portion of the trail. For those that continue along the loop, you'll find another overlook along the way along with a carpeting of moss, ferns and wildflowers, sheltered beneath a wide canopy of local hardwoods an evergreens. This trail is well worth the short hike, even if you decide the breathtaking 80 foot overlook perhaps steals a bit too much of your breath.

Directions (click the Google Map below to enter in your address)

Giant City State Park
235 Giant City Road, Makanda, IL 62958
(618) 457-4836

More Information: 

Local Treks on facebook 
Giant City State Park Devil's Standtable Nature Trail - Be sure to hit this trail too!
Giant City State Park - Official IDNR Homepage
Giant City Trails -  A list of all eight established trails
Giant City Visitor Maps - Maps provided by the IDNR of the entire park
More Photos From Giant City State Park - My Flickr Album for Giant City State Park

Hawn State Park: The Happiness of Hawn

To me, the happiness of Hawn State Park lies completely in its pure variety of ways to enjoy it. Are you a rock lover? Visit Hawn to see one of Missouri's best examples of Lamotte Sandstone, an old, coarse-grained sandstone that overlies ancient igneous bedrock. Think Missouri State Parks should be "for the birds"? Well this location sees a great variety of our fine feathered friends, including pine warblers, chickadees, and short eared owls. Love the gentle gurgling of a crystal clear stream? You have to check out Pickle Creek, which has been designated an outstanding state water source due to its crystal clear waters, due in part to that Lamotte Sandstone above. Water lovers may also seek out the River Aux Vases, which meanders through the area, carving out steep valleys.

Then there are us hikers, and we're in for a particular treat as Hawn State Park presents us with four fantastic trails each of varying length and difficulty: the super short .70 mile Pickle Creek Trail, the 300 foot handicapped accessible Overlook Trail, the 9.75 mile Whispering Pines Trail, and the shorter 3.75 mile White Oaks Trail. Each of these well maintained trails allows us to take in all that Hawn has to offer including two backpacking camps on the Whispering Pines Trail for those who wish to take in the "wild" local nightlife, and that makes me happy!

This is the second time I've hiked the White Oaks Trail in Hawn State Park, once in the fall of 2013 with my family and now the summer of 2014 with only my four-legged hiking buddy Hyatt, and I enjoyed every step of each journey. As if the changing seasons couldn't possibly provide enough change and variety, the White Oaks Trail itself constantly changes scenery and trail conditions as you hike. Like a Hollywood star vying for your attention, this hike seems to constantly attempt to outdo itself searching for new, fresh looks to give you.

A GREAT Trailhead Begets a GREAT Journey

I'll start at the very beginning, because it is one of the most important parts of the trail to me, the trailhead. At the clearly marked White Oak trailhead I found a very well stocked information area, which offered literature on other Missouri State Parks, many area maps, a billboard with important informational postings, a very convenient vault toilet, and, on my summer trip, an absence of cars! It appeared as though I may have one of Missouri's prettiest State Parks, all to myself (well not completely myself I did share a bit with my canine companion).

Variety, Variety, Variety...

Just past the trailhead the White Oak Trail itself starts out a bit "rugged", featuring stones intertwined with rich, earthy roots comprising the first bit of surface. I found myself looking down frequently, to assure my footing along the first half mile of the trail due to the rocks and roots, despite the elevation changing very, very little, I'm always a bit overly cautious when hiking alone to not twist an ankle.

Continuing down the trail as you approach the first White Connector (WC1, which will lead you to the Whispering Pines Trail), the rocks and roots make way and the trail itself morphs into to a landlocked sandy beach-like trail, bordered by beautiful trees and undergrowth. As you continue to hike, past WC1, the sand particles become progressively larger and larger until they are no longer grains of sand but pebbles and small rocks. Then I catch one of my very favorite scents, pine, and the trail changes yet again, the scattered shortleaf pine needles cushioning my every step as I silently stride the trail's well worn path through majestic native shortleaf pines and cedars. It is here, among the piney giants, that I let a bit of nature's chorus swell around me, listening as the bird's tenor song crescendos, while rhythmic crickets keep measure. The only thing more amazing than the shifting scenery is that I have traveled only a mile to see it all!

Skullcap, it may sound scary it's actually quite beautiful.

Continuing down the trail you will find the second White Connector (WC2: which also leads to the Whispering Pines Trial), you'll want to continue to the right to stay on the White Oaks Trail. In just a few yards from WC2, you will find the official White Oaks Trail loop. The White Oaks Trail loop will continue your journey through ever changing surroundings featuring some creek crossings, rock overlooks, boulders on which to scramble and maybe even some sweet edibles such as wild blackberries, hiding in the underbrush. Also be sure to keep an eye out for some truly stunning wildflowers such as the wild yellow lady-slippers orchid (which I couldn't spy anywhere). But if you are lucky enough to find one of the yellow lady-slippers orchids, don't try to take it home, the orchid's roots are actually attached to fungal threads deep beneath the soil and once those threads are severed the orchid dies... plus you could net a $1,000 fine or win a fabulous stay in one of our finest concrete incarceration centers for digging them up as well (so I'd suggest taking lots of pictures instead, and maybe even sending some to us here).

With so much to see and do along the way, the White Oaks Trail is a great solo or family hiking destination. There are a plethora of opportunities to splash about in a creek, take a side "off-trail" adventure into the underbrush to forage, climb the branches of a gnarled old cedar tree, bound from boulder to boulder, perch upon rock ledges, and so much more that the 3.75 mile length may never even be noticed by most, resulting in less of the dreaded "are we there yet's". This trail is truly diverse, overwhelmingly beautiful and simply begging for you to enjoy. As always, thank you for reading and Happy Trails!

Something New: Google My Tracks

Below is a little something new I'm trying, Google's My Tracks. Hopefully you'll be able to garner at least a bit of information from the trail map below. Although the mileage at the White Oaks Trailhead stakes out the trail at 3.75 miles, My Tracks placed the mileage at 4.09 miles, maybe I took a bit of a wider trail than they measured, or perhaps my phone's GPS was off by a few feet here and there. I just hope you find the information below helpful and if you do, please let me know.
 

More Information: 

Local Treks on facebook 
White Oaks Trail Map (print it off and take it with you... just in case)
Hawn State Park homepage
How to Take a Great Dayhike
Tiny. Tenacious. Terrible. Ticks.
Missouri State Parks Homepage

Sam A. Baker Park: Shut Ins Trail

Sam A. Baker is a popular Missouri State Park, let me stress popular... and why the heck not?! This park really seems to have it all, from zipping along on bicycle trails, grilling hotdogs over a campfire, popping a tent at one of two huge camping areas, taking a cooling dip in the clear St. Francis River, to hiking on one of four trails, there is a little something for everyone. There is an added bonus to Sam A. Baker too, if you happen to forget something back at home, the area boasts a Park Store that has just about anything you may need. But keep in mind, with so much to offer at Sam A. Baker, there are many who seek to really take advantage of it, and by that I mean, it may be a bit... crowded.

First Impressions of the Park

My initial impressions of Sam A. Baker were fantastic, as we made our way down Highway 143 the trees began to envelop the road, creating a tunnel of green gently leading us toward our initial destination, Campground 1. The campground was very nice, and despite the recent rains, our campsite (number 5) was relatively dry with only a few low spots gathering puddles. After pitching the tent we decided to take a nice, leisurely stroll through the campground. Making our way just a bit to the South we found the cool St. Francis River, nearly a clear as a window, carving out its gravel banks and creating perfect places to wade and swim in its refreshing waters. As we explored the campground further we found a very well traversed and well maintained Paved Bike Trail to the North, which is quite a perk for the visiting camping jogger. This trail stretches 1.5 miles and travels from campground 1 all the way to the park store, it travels along State Highway 143 and allows for some picturesque views of Big Creek as well.

It's All About the Amenities!

After exploring the campground we journeyed over to the park store (which is VERY handy if you have found yourself forgetting something at home) and the park lodge. As Sam A. Baker does not allow you to transport your own firewood into the park, due to the emerald ash borer, so if you plan to have a campfire, be sure to pick up some wood at the store. Then while you're out you may like to take a quick stop at the Park Office and Visitor Center. There they will provide recreational equipment, free of charge, that you may use by simply checking the items out. After taking quick tours of the amenities we returned back to our campsite, flush with wood for a cozy campfire, ice cold sodas and some delicious chips from the store.

"Nocturnal Calls" and Camping

Once back at our campsite we started up our fire (due to the damp wood this was quite the undertaking, thank the heavens for lighter fluid) and roasted up some hotdogs, marveled as the fireflies faint green glow lit the night, told a few stories and then decided to get a good rest so we could explore the park even more the next day. After zipping up the tent, lying atop my sleeping bag I soon found myself being "gently" lulled to sleep with the echoing "Whoo HOOO" and "I'm SOOOOO Drunk" mating calls of the Migrating Midwestern Hooter, which were interrupted only by the heavy and constant "Ker-Thunk!" of the all to closely located latrine door. We did have a laugh out loud moment as our border collie, Hyatt, spotted a huge raccoon that had made its way onto our picnic table and attempted to leap through the mesh window of our tent in order to chase the raccoon away.

Upon awaking the next morning and with the migratory mating calls of the night now behind us, we decided to escape some of the more popular areas, in a desperate bid to get at least a small taste of the park's beauty without the crowds or noise. So we checked our area map and chose to set foot upon the Shut Ins Trail, a quick mile and a quarter hike out from just behind the Park Lodge, to see if we could find a slightly more secluded swimming hole.

The Shut Ins Trail

The Shut Ins Trail is wonderfully maintained; consisting of a well worn dirt path, sometimes sprinkled with gravel, and features low water bridges, handrails, and steps along the way. Children will find an easy hike on most of this route, and there are plenty of sights to see and share on your way along the path. We began our journey by heading downhill along the blue blazed trail with (what I believe to be) Big Creek bordering us just to the East. As we hiked about half a mile through the Sycamores, Cottonwoods and Sweet Gums we came upon a small off-shooting path, which we decided to investigate. Boy am I glad we did, because at the end of that path we found a gorgeous little waterfall, that wound its way through and over the large, moss covered dellenite boulders.

After getting our fill of scrambling over the boulders we headed back to the main trail and continued on, with all of summer's colors seemingly on display as wildflowers competed for our attention along the trail. We followed the trail for nearly another half mile until we came to a fork, one path leading to the Big Creek shut ins (to the right) and another path leading up the hill toward a connection with the Mudlick Trail. The path that led to the Mudlick Trail boasted a Shelter, which marked the intersection of the two trails, but also heads up a steeper incline. After a short bit of consideration we chose to head towards the Big Creek shut ins for a refreshing dip. Seriously, could there have been any other decision to be made on a hot summer's day?

The Big Creek shut ins seemed almost too good to be true, the area was wide, with water plenty deep enough for swimming and there were some low, flat cliffs that just begged to be jumped off. In fact, the water was at an almost perfect depth that day, but if you choose not to swim you could easily wade the shut ins, whose water was just a bit over chest high on our visit. We quickly found it was too good to be true, such a naturally beautiful swimmin' hole had spoken out and many had answered its call, within just a few minutes of our arrival the Big Creek shut in transformed from a peaceful watery respite to a rowdy outdoor roadhouse complete with Swazye'esque mullets to boot. We swam for a bit more then decided to make our way back to camp for a spot of lunch. As we headed back down the trail, making our way toward the Park Lodge, we passed a steady stream of like minded visitors who may have been just like us, looking for that little hide-a-way in the middle of a very, very popular Missouri State Park.

Final Thoughts

With so much to offer its no surprise that Sam A. Baker is so appealing to so many and there is no doubt that we'll return sometime and the 5.5 mile Mudlick Trail certainly looks very, very appealing, especially the Backpacker Camp located on a small spur of the Hike Only Section.. But the overall experience, for me, was it seemed simply too crowded. Sam A. Baker seemed (to me) more like a nature theme park than actual State Park and the campground, while very well maintained, was just a bit too... popular.

More Information: 

Sam A. Baker State Park Homepage
Sam A. Baker Hiking Trails
 - Shut In Trail Map
Fishing Report and Prospects: St. Francis River (above Wappappello Lake)
Local Treks on facebook 
Tiny. Tenacious. Terrible. Ticks. - A post on how to keep those bloodsuckers at bay!
How To Take A GREAT Day Hike - Hitting the trail? Then you may want to check out these tips.

The 100 Missouri Miles Challenge. Think You Can Do It?

There is a lot to be proud of here in Missouri, and our State Parks and the miles and miles of well maintained hiking trails they offer are just one of the many, many cool things that many Missourians (including myself) may take for granted from time to time. Well, we may let our appreciation of the Missouri trail system slip from time to time, but American Trails (a national, non-profit organization that works on behalf of our country's hiking, biking, and riding trails) named little ol' MO the distinction of "Best Trails State" for 2013-14 and our Missouri State Parks had a HUGE impact in Missouri receiving that distinction as they accounted for nearly 1,000 miles of Missouri's trails! Now, be sure to keep in mind that the the Missouri Department of Conservation also oversees approximately 600 miles of trails and Federal Agencies (such as the National Park Service, US Fish and Wildlife, and US Forest Service) account for 700 miles of trails, so I'm certainly not calling them slouches as all.

Well, all this hub-bub about the quality of Missouri Trails set into motion a challenge from our Governor, Jay Nixon, to get Missourians off the couch and onto one of our awesome state trails in 2013. The gauntlet was tossed as he asked for residents to take in countless lungfuls of fresh air, some of the most spectacular scenery in the state, and memories that will reside with them for a lifetime as they logged 100 miles on Missouri's trails. The response was enormous and we racked up over 1.1 MILLION Missouri miles in 2013. The Governor is hopeful that we will beat that amount this year as the challenge was once again put forth on March 20th.

So if you plan to hike, run, walk, paddle, bike, hop, skip, jump, roll or plan any other form of locomotion on Missouri's trails why don't you join the challenge today? Just hop over to 100missourimiles.com today and sign up. There is still plenty of time for you to put in your own #100MoMiles!

More Information

How To: Take A GREAT Day Hike
100 Missouri Miles Homepage
Missouri State Parks
Missouri Department of Conservation Homepage

Big Oak Tree State Park: Take A Stroll With Giants.

 

Real-life giants reside in a small conservation area near East Prairie, Missouri. These behemoths tower silently over the swampy land. As we strolled among these quiet colossi we gained a unique, native view of Southeast Missouri and were afforded a free trip back in time; as Big Oak Tree State Park is one of few areas that reflects the original swampy land that the early Native Americans and settlers explored and lived in centuries before us, earning it a Missouri tag as a Natural Area. As we journeyed over the Boardwalk Trail it was amazing to see traditional Missouri hardwood forest with exquisite oak, hickory, sweet gum and sugarberry transform into an environment that would seem to be more at home in Louisiana; a soupy swamp featuring a champion pumpkin ash, bald cypress, swamp privet, button bush, swamp locust, and large black willows, all within a just few yards. After a tour of Big Oak Tree State Park visitors can certainly see why we locals call the bootheel "Swampeast" Missouri.

The Park of Champions! 

Many current and past champion trees call Big Oak Tree State Park home. In fact, this Missouri state park boasts more champion trees than any other location in Missouri, earning it the nickname "The Park of Champions". According to what I have read the park's two National Champion trees are a Pumpkin Ash with a 118 foot circumference that stands over 150 foot tall and a Persimmon that is 97 foot in circumference and reaches 133 foot in height. Just to provide a quick comparison of just how mighty these mammoths are, an average Persimmon tree stands about 60 foot tall, the noble Persimmon Champion in Big Oak Tree State Park more than doubles that figure! If you want to see the champion Persimmon you will need to take the1.5 mile Bottomland Trail. I'll be honest, even the VINES here are MASSIVE! You can find vines growing up these majestic giants that are reminiscent of creeping vegetation I've only seen in Indiana Jones movies. Be careful though, some of those vines are poison ivy; others include wild grape, peppervine and Virginia creeper.

A unique native habitat provides for diverse life.

As you hike through Big Oak Tree State Park you may spot wildlife and plantlife that you may not see again or at any other park in Missouri. As you journey through this unique environment, be sure to keep an eye out for the swamp rabbit, who has been placed on the conservation concern list due to its habitat continuing to be drained in Missouri. This unique and sometimes large rabbit loves to swim in the soupy Southeast Missouri swamplands, if pursued they will take to the water to avoid their pursuer and can frequently be seen resting on logs and sticks in the middle of swampland. Birdwatchers from near and far can also be found as over 150 species of birds may be seen here; including the brightly colored prothonotary warbler and my personal favorite, the pileated woodpecker, which can be heard tapping upon the Big Oak Tree giants in search of  a meal. There are snakes in the swamp as well, although there have NOT been any documented sightings of any venomous water snakes such as the water moccasin (cottonmouth) according to the Missouri State Park's Plants and Animals page. You may also keep an ear out for the chorus of croaks, as the frogs serenade for mates in the spring and summer. If you would like to know how to identify the type of frog by it's song, here is a great video for you:


Be sure to bring the kids...

Big Oak Tree State Park is a perfect place to take the kids and have a great day out. The park itself boasts a large picnic area that is near both of the trails and feature barbeque grills, picnic tables, playground, and a large shelter (just in case the weather changes). The Boardwalk Trail is a beautiful and easy walk, the suspended metal trail keeps you dry and your shoes dry as you make your way through the bottomland forest and into a real Southeast Missouri swamp. However, if you are looking for the Interpretive Center which is located at the trailhead for the Boardwalk Trail, it is closed, with a No Trespassing sign blocking the stairs.

But keep in mind...
There are plenty of birds singing, frogs leaping, and even a few snakes slithering in the swamp, but the trail should keep you above any danger. Remember though, you're in a real patch of the "Swampeast" here, and mosquitoes just LOVE all that muddy stagnant water, so don't forget the bug repellent you may want to read my critically acclaimed "Better Safe Than Swarmed - Homemade Bug Spray"  and make your very own (ok, so just my mother acclaimed it, but she's a critic, right?). And my "Tiny. Tenacious. Terrible. Ticks." post will help you properly remove any unwanted bloodsucking hitchhikers that may feel the need to tag along. You may also want to tack a glance at How to Take a Great Dayhike as well, to help you prepare for a great family or solo hike. If you're looking for a trail longer and more "natural" than the Boardwalk Trail, you'll want to hit the Bottomland Trail, which is accessible via a spur that leads to the picnic area and the official trailhead which is near the park's lake. The Missouri Department of Natural Resources has also produced a nice YouTube video that features Big Oak Tree Park, watch it below:

Thank you for reading, I hope to see you out on the trail!

More Information:
Big Oak Tree State Park - MDC page
Big Oak Tree State Park Topographic Map  
Visit Local Treks on facebook!
Go See A Champion - A site listing Champion trees throughout the US
Better Safe Than Swarmed! - A How-To for homemade bug repellen
Tips: How To Take A Great Dayhike
Tiny. Tenacious. Terrible. Ticks.
National Geographic "Backyard Bird Identifier" 
MDC Field Guide - An EXCELLENT resource to local wildlife

American Hiking Society's National Trails Day June 7th

American Hiking Society’s National Trails Day^® 2014

American Hiking Society’s National Trails Day^® will bring together outdoor enthusiasts across the country on Saturday, June 7, 2014, for the 22^nd annual celebration of America's magnificent trail system and its countless supporters and volunteers. More than 2,000 nationwide events will take place including trail maintenance, hiking, paddling, biking, horseback riding, bird watching, running, trail celebrations and more!   To find an event near you, visit http://www.americanhiking.org/ntd-events/

National Trails Day® encourages all Americans to connect with local outdoor clubs, businesses, community groups, and parks and recreation departments as well as federal land managing agencies to experience, appreciate, and share the natural places we cherish. "Twenty years ago, American Hiking built National Trails Day® around the idea that for one day each year we should come together outdoors and give back to our favorite trails.  Since then, people from all walks of life have been coming out in increasing numbers on NTD to celebrate our trails and the great outdoors,” said Gregory Miller, American Hiking Society president.

Since 1993, National Trails Day® has inspired millions of individuals and community groups to take part in activities that promote healthy living and mental well-being, protect green space, educate youth and adults on the importance of trails, and instill excitement for the outdoors. Plan now to host or attend an event in your area, visit http://www.americanhiking.org/national-trails-day/ for more information or to host your own event! 

Looking to get outside and on the trail right now? Currently the American Hiking Society 2014 Trails Day Challenge is in full swing and is a GREAT lead up to National Trails Day! Visit http://www.americanhiking.org/national-trails-day/2014-challenge/ to see if there is a hike location near you! Then just "take a hike", snap a photo of yourself on the trail, tweet the pic to @Americanhiking and tag either @Americanhiking or @MenashaRidge with the hashtag #NationalTrailsDay. How easy is that?

American Hiking Society’s National Trails Day® is a nationally recognized trail awareness program that occurs annually on the first Saturday of June and inspires the public to discover, learn about, and celebrate trails while participating in outdoor activities, clinics, and trail stewardship projects.  National Trails Day® is a registered trademark of American Hiking Society.

Founded in 1976, American Hiking Society is the only national, recreation-based nonprofit organization dedicated to promoting and protecting America’s hiking trails, their surrounding natural areas and the hiking experience.   

To learn more about American Hiking Society and its mission and programs, visit www.AmericanHiking.org or call (301) 565-6704.