Giant City State Park: Giant City Nature Trail

There are times in which Mother Nature takes the subtle approach. She gently nudges you, providing you a wondrous moment or a special little insight to what makes her tick. And then there are times that she gets right in your face, causing you to be unable to look away, and assuring that you notice her grandeur, her beauty, her utter uniqueness... As you set tread to the Giant City Nature Trail be prepared, Mother Nature is moving in close, she'll be sure that after this short one mile loop trail you'll be fully aware of her rare and unique beauty.

The beauty of the Giant City Nature Trail certainly lies within its unique "streets". These passageways wind through colossal slabs of sandstone, which loom far above you and sending trees which look to grown upon their surface to grow quickly or never find the sun. Each of these large sandstone structures seem to form buildings which line the streets, with lines so straight they seem as though they could have only been carved by a master stonemason, as nature so often abhors presumed conformity and conventionality. But it is this seeming conformity, these straight, towering angular blocks which dwarf you and your fellow hikers, that make this area so unique from the rest of the park. In fact, this area is a bit reminiscent of the Panther Den Wilderness, only the Giant City Nature Trail is far more accessible and has a well worn trail to follow.

These massive stone structures have, no doubt, awed mankind for millennia, with man obviously attempting to leave behind their marks upon the stone, the same way that the stone had left its lasting mark upon them. If you inspect the walls carefully you may come upon a pair of names carved upon the sandstone walls in 1862, by Theodore Wilson and his brother Albert during the Civil War. The pair's stoney autographs have become a popular carving to seek out and if you look very carefully, you may be able to even make out the haunting face in the rock wall that opposes it. During our visit, someone had defaced the the Giant City Trail "face" by painting an outline around the image, hopefully with time the paint used will fade and the face will again become a bit more eerie. Time may slip by quickly as you read the many inscriptions upon the walls, searching those breadcrumbs left which bare silent witness to those explorers who shared this same trail, same route, same beauty with you decades before.

After you have gazed and searched the etchings of visitors past, you will walk through a small walkway bordered by sandstone and under a precariously perched boulder. As you make your way through, it is hard not to have a quick second of doubt as to whether you should pass under or not, as I will admit, I had a quick thought of, 'what if today is the day that rock decides to fall'? It is also another great place to take a few more family photos and makes for a great "look at what I'm holding up" props. There are still plenty of Giant City buildings left to awe and amaze you, and you may even find the opportunity to scramble your way upon them to gain an additional view of the Giant City streets on which you have now tread.


Directions (click the Google Map below to enter in your address)

Giant City State Park
235 Giant City Road
Makanda, IL 62958
(618) 457-4836

More Information: 

Local Treks on facebook 
Giant City State Park Stonefort Nature Trail - Be sure to hit this trail too!
Giant City State Park Devil's Standtable - Another GREAT trail in Giant City

Giant City State Park - Official IDNR Homepage
Giant City Trails -  A list of all eight established trails
Giant City Visitor Maps - Maps provided by the IDNR of the entire park
More Photos From Giant City State Park - My Flickr Album for Giant City State Park

Panther Den: Don't Forget Your Map!

Panther Den Wilderness may be the smallest wilderness area in the state of Illinois, but it packs in some of the most distinctive and maze-like rock formations you may ever see! This distinctive and unique area boasts over 820 acres of land and is bordered by Crab Orchard Wilderness, which offers an additional 4050 acres of Illinois wilderness to its north. Before you read on, you may want to brush up on Wilderness Areas (Let's Get WILD) is and print yourself off a map of the area.

How To Get There
Finding Panther Den Wilderness may be, in itself, a bit of an adventure. If you have been searching for directions I'm sure you've encountered a thousand different versions out on the internet. Some talking about private land others talking about washed out creeks, heck some may even be saying you'd better just float on in from the north on one of the fingers of Devil's Kitchen Lake. I guess I'll go ahead and add another way to get there, ours was simple and fairly straight forward.

From Cape Girardeau, MO we started across the Emerson Bridge into Illinois and followed highway 146 East through Anna, IL turning left on Lick Creek Road near the outskirts of town. After traveling about eight miles down Lick Creek Road, we veered off to the left onto Grandview Road, following it until again veering left onto Hall Church Road. Follow Hall Church Road until you are able to turn right on Rocky Comfort Road, enjoy this last bit of paved road. Continue down Rocky Comfort Road for about three miles until you can make a right turn onto Panther Den ROAD. Welcome to the gravel my friend! Now, follow Panther Den ROAD for a bit over a mile or so, until you see
Panther Den LANE on the left. You'll notice this road is in pretty rough shape (or at least it was in 2013-14), keep to the right as it is a one lane road, and you will see the parking lot at the end of the road on the right.

Pay attention to the trail markers out here:
The Panther Den loop is 389,
the trail back to the lot is 371,
and the River to River Trail is 001.
See the Quick Trail Note below.

The Trail
One of the first things you may notice as you approach the trailhead is that there is a complete lack of information and maps on the Panther Den Informational Board (or at least there was on all of our visits in 2013-14). I don't know if all the information fell off, was stolen, or if a pack of wild dingos with a taste for maps and information strolled in and devoured all postings. So be sure to print off a map of the area before you leave home, read my cautionary tales below if you don't think having a map is important...

The trail itself begins as a mixture of gravel and dirt, featuring many planned switchbacks which help to reduce the wear and tear of erosion on the trail and wilderness. The switchbacks also make the hilly terrain a bit easier to traverse. The rolling downhill hike will bottom out with a small creek crossing, be alert here as we have found this a fantastic place to find local wildlife visiting for a refreshing drink. From here you'll travel up a small hill be sure to veer left at the trail intersection and that will take you to a welcome sign for the area. You can now follow the trail around the Panther Den or, better yet, go inside the magnificent sandstone formations for which the entire wilderness area is named!

Quick Trail Note:

The Panther Den loop makes use of the 389 white diamond trail markers/blazes, however these markers are sometime sparse and, I suspect, stolen by idiots. You may see markers up for 389-A and 389-B, both of which are small spurs, these spurs seem to be old, abandoned trails. My experience is that 389-A and 389-B are generally overgrown and hard to navigate (I became pretty lost on what I believe now to be 389-B). I'd suggest staying on the main 389 trail and then following the 371 trail marker back to the parking area. 001 is the designation for the River To River Trail, which runs through and connects Panther Den Wilderness and Crab Orchard Wilderness.

Enter The Den!

One of the many "rooms" within the
Panther Den rock formations.

Inside Panther Den, you'll find these huge sandstone formations seem to form rooms, hallways, and even floors. Some of these formations are so angular that you may have an "Ancient Aliens" like feeling, wondering if perhaps some ancient astronauts visited the area eons ago in order to lay down rock foundations and rooms to inhabit. One particular "room" in Panther Den seems to even have a poured foundation. In reality though, aliens didn't have anything to do with it, all of the formations are natural... Or are they?

You can easily spend hours inside of Panther Den, leaping from cliff to cliff, poking into every crack and crag, squeezing through narrow crevices and splits or just running your hands over the smoothness of the sandstone. There are small waterfalls to be discovered, side trails to be explored, cairns to be constructed and plenty of places to hide as well; so you can jump out and scare the wits out of your friends and family. And, although you won't find any panthers in Panther Den (at least not since the 1870's) you may spot some other local wildlife such as whitetail deer, turkey, muskrats, beaver, and skunks. If you are really lucky, you may even get a rare glimpse of a bobcat or mink. So be sure to keep your eyes peeled!

Be sure to set a meeting place up.
Just in case.

You will also find many sandstone "coveys" carved into the rock in the area around Panther Den. These sandstone overhangs offer shelter to an uncommon wildflower, French's shooting star (Dodecatheon frenchii). Unfortunately we didn't spot a single one on any of our hikes. But, if you would like to see or find one I would suggest hitting the area in May or June and seeking out sandstone overhangs near running water. Although the French's shooting star is not currently on Illinois Threatened and Endangered list, it is still considered a sensitive species in the state. So if you are lucky enough to find a colony of these beautiful little wildflowers, please take only pictures so that others may be able to enjoy their beauty as well.

You may also want to stick together while exploring the inside of the formations, or at the least set a place and time to meet up in case someone gets separated. It is very easy to get lost within the maze-like formations of Panther Den. Children (and parents) may freak out if they suddenly find themselves separated from the rest of the group. If you become horribly lost remember that a distress signal in the woods consists of three successive sounds; be they yells, shots, claps, whistles, or any other signal.

Camping
There is so much to be explored in Panther Den that you may even consider camping within the area. If you do, remember that you are within a wilderness area. You do not need a permit and the US Forest Service asks only that you practice "Leave No Trace" ethics and camp a minimum of 300 feet from any established trails. Most of the "user" camps that you will encounter are far too close to established trails and have left obvious marks on the landscape. You are encouraged not to use these campsites so that these overused areas may recover. Of course, you may want to read up on what a wilderness is and always remember to practice your very best Wilderness Manners.

Now that I've told you of how beautiful and truly distinct Panther Den Wilderness is, I'd like to give you two quick stories of warning. 

Story One: Our First Trip

On our first outing at Panther Den Wilderness we became lost. Very lost. Playing victim to many of the "trails" as we ventured further into the wilderness. We had inadvertently stumbled upon an old, abandoned equestrian trail that twisted and turned through rugged terrain. As I continued to notice the decline in the quality of the trail, I became (silently) alarmed. I could tell we were no longer on an established trail and we had taken so many lefts and rights, I could not recall from which way we had come. Luckily I had my phone, turned off, in my pocket. No bars. We continued to hike and I continued to quietly check my phone. A bar lit. I stopped and instantly hit the button for Google Maps. Once it loaded I found our heading and took note of where the trailhead was on that small, smart phone screen. Had it not been for that stroke of luck we may have been lost for hours in Panther Den Wilderness. This is the experience that taught me to never, ever, set out on a trail without a map and an idea of the route I wish to travel.

Story Two: Stranger on the Road

Panther Den Wilderness is for tree lovers...

On our second visit to Panther Den Wilderness we made our way down the gravel road toward Panther Den Wilderness, when we noticed a man wandering aimlessly nearly a mile from the trailhead. It was apparent to me that he was lost and I slowed down to see if he needed any assistance. He sheepishly admitted to us that he too had fell victim to one of the "false" trails of Panther Den and as we drove him back to the trailhead, he told us he had been wandering for hours, without a phone or map, happening upon the road by pure chance. I could tell he was embarrassed, as I had been just a few months prior, of becoming so lost. He was an outdoorsman, confident in his abilities to maintain a heading and follow a trail, it was this over confidence (which I too had suffered) that led to his unintended side adventure, and his catching a ride with us back to his truck. His last words to us were, "I can never let my wife know about this."

So now, please, take this map. Print it. Fold it. Put it in your pocket. It's simple. If you plan to visit Panther Den Wilderness and truly explore the area I cannot stress the importance of having a map on hand enough. Safely experiencing the beauty and sheer uniqueness of the area is worth the ink!


More Information:
CLICK HERE AND PRINT THIS MAP!
Visit Local Treks on facebook!
Wilderness Areas: Let's Get WILD!
Tips: How To Take A Great Dayhike  
Illinois Wildflowers (online guide with pictures)
A Conservation Assessment for the French's Shooting Star (warning: good read, pretty scientific)
National Geographic "Backyard Bird Identifier"

320 Millions Years Well Spent: Garden of the Gods, IL

Be sure to take time to soak in the natural beauty of the area.

The exquisite sandstone formations located at Garden of the Gods Recreation Area, located in Illinois, took nearly 320 million years to form and, in my opinion, every single second has been very, very well spent. The area boasts truly awe inspiring vistas that beg to be fully taken in, small well worn trails that beckon you to lay tread to, and unique formations that are instantly recognizable, such as; Camel, Mushroom, and Anvil Rock formations. This true Illinois treasure is one of the most awe inspiring locations I have laid eyes upon, and was reminiscent of views I experienced in South Dakota and Colorado, only far, far closer to home!

You can't miss the Devil's Smokestack!

Garden of the Gods Recreation Area boasts over 3300 acres of forest in the counties of Pope, Saline, and Hardin, with 5.5 miles of interconnecting trails spread throughout. However, the most popular trail by far is the quarter mile long Observation Trail. This well maintained and traveled interpretive trail will have you gazing at some very interesting rock formations such as Monkey Face, Mushroom Rock, Table Rock, Camel Rock and the Devil's Smokestack. In just a few short seconds, you'll easily be able to make out each of the namesake rocks as you stroll along the trail, take care and watch your step though, the smooth sandstone beneath your feet may be slippery when wet. Before venturing down the trail be sure to read the large informational signboard that contains background on the natural history and geology of the area, there will be additional interpretive signs along the trail as well pointing out even more interesting formations and history. Honestly, I don't want to give away too much on this short hike, it is a path best experienced rather than explained.

Interesting outcrops are EVERYWHERE!

If you are heading out to the Garden of the Gods be sure to wear comfortable shoes because the rocks, cliffs, and chasms BEG to be climbed upon and explored. No matter your age, I can guarantee that you will hear a small voice from within asking "What do you think you can see from up there?" and before you can even consciously reply, your body will be moving forward, ready to discover the answer. I'd also suggest that you pack a lunch as there are many places along the trail to stop and rest, allowing you to really soak in the surrounding beauty, and these spots are perfect for small picnics (just be sure to keep the area beautiful by picking up all your trash, please, remember ).

Scenic overlook after scenic overlook is what you can expect.

I also want to let you know that this area is one of the busier parks that we have visited, on any given nice day I can assure you that you will see many other hikers and nature lovers out on this trail. In fact, on our summer visit the area was downright crowded in some spots (but you can always find some spots to have to yourself for a bit). So if seclusion and solitude is what you seek, you may want to hit a portion of the River to River Trail, which runs through Garden of the Gods. However, I can't stress how splendid the views are from the Observation Trail and missing them is darn near criminal...

Ever wonder what a tree eats?

For those of you interested in longer journeys, this makes a fantastic starting area to traverse a portion of the 160 mile River to River Trail, which blazes through the Garden of the Gods Recreation Area. The Garden of the Gods Recreation Area can also satisfy those of you looking to "rough it" a bit, with year round camping at the Pharaoh Campgrounds, but be sure to bring what you need with you as the nearest town, Elizabethtown is about a 20 minute drive away. Campsites are rented for $10 on a first come, first served basis.

Garden of the Gods Recreation Area and the Observation Trail make an absolutely fantastic family friendly day trip. I can assure you that after a day of bouncing among the boulders, shimmying along the outcrops, and traveling the quarter mile trail, your curtain climbers will be tuckered! Just be sure to pack a light snack or lunch and follow some of these tips for a great day hike. You may want to include a couple of band-aids though, just in case of a scraped knee. Just be sure to take time to revel in the splendor of the area and have fun!

More Information:
Visit Local Treks on facebook!
Tips: How To Take A Great Dayhike 
Shawnee National Forest - Garden of the Gods
Pharaoh Campground Information (Nearly halfway down the page)
My Flickr Garden of the Gods Photos
Garden of the Gods Trail Map (via ShawneeNationalForest.com)
Illinois Wildflowers (online guide with pictures)
National Geographic "Backyard Bird Identifier"


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The Darn Near Perfect Hike: Pickle Springs Natural Area

Anyone who has hit the trail with their family knows, it isn't always perfect; someone usually is a bit tired, or a bit sore, or a touch cranky, or the weather may turn and sometimes the full beauty of the area (and the hike) simply isn't really revealed. However, I remember Pickle Springs to be darn near perfect and it would be this trip that truly solidified our family's love and appreciation of the outdoors and hiking. The weather, combined with the natural beauty that Pickle Springs Natural Area offers washed over each of us resulting in our family fully enjoying every single second of this hike, eager and excited to find what would lay around the next bend of the trail. I have a feeling, that if you time it just right, you too can experience a bit of that euphoria as well!

A small, but beautiful, group of Bird's Foot Violets
we found along the trail.

We ended up at Pickle Springs Natural Area simply by chance, that day we actually were looking to hike through Hawn State Park and the White Oaks Trail, but passed by the entrance and then turned into Pickle Springs Natural Area parking lot in order to reverse direction and head back. But instead of pulling back out of the lot, we decided to take a quick peek of Pickle Springs, and boy, am I glad we did! The two mile loop, "Trail Through Time", has just about everything that you could possibly pack into one trip; seasonal waterfalls, awe inspiring overlooks, incredible rock formations, ancient weathered trees, gorgeous wildflowers, babbling creeks, crystal clear spring water and so much more, all on an easy to navigate and well maintained trail that even features wooden bridges to help you over some troublesome creek crossings. The area was named a National Natural Landmark in 1974 and with so many unique features you will quickly realize why as you hike.

Ferns abound in the wet sandstone soil here.

As we began our trek, we opted to head right on the trail, toward Piney Glade, Rockpile Canyon and the Headwall Falls. It was quickly apparent to us that this trail was very well traveled, well packed with a bit of gravel thrown in for measure. The canopy of trees provided just the right amount of sunlight and warmth as we made our way through the forest and provided a perfect scene as the birds sang in the background. Headwall Falls were not really "Falling" but it was still an impressive formation of rocks and with frogs and toads abounding in the area my daughter had the time of her life chasing them about. I marveled at the ferns and mosses growing on the sandstone surface of the canyon while the steady beat of the water as it trickled off the edge and fell to the rocky floor where it would water a great gathering of lush green plants.

A pickerel in the hand is worth two in the spring...

Pickle Spring is itself an impressive sight, with the clear water flowing, while more water cascades over top, creating a mini-waterfall into the spring pool. The view from the bridge crossing the creek provides a perfect vantage of the spring and may even serve as a great place to dangle your toes into the water, Andy Griffith style. Here we found a great gathering of pickerel frogs who seemed to hop right into our hands! Continuing through it was a short trip up to Dome Rock, marked with so many shallow caves and crags, this rock just begs to be looked at closer.

Gathering inspiration at the Spirit Canyon overlook.

As you reach Spirit Canyon you will find Missouri's only native pine tree, the short leaf pine, growing in this area, along with white and black oak trees and many of these trees were growing as Missouri was thrown into the Civil War, according to the Missouri Department of Conservation. You may even chance upon a low blueberry bush, as they grow well in the somewhat acidic soil of the area here, if your lucky! As you actually step up to take in the Spirit Canyon view, know that this may be the best views I have experienced in my Missouri hikes, period. There is nothing "fancy" about the view, and I can't put my finger on exactly why I love this particular vantage point, but it has stayed with me and I can still picture it now in my head.

A view of the Double Arch, you can spend a great deal of time
here just snapping photos!

We continued to enjoy the hike, as it meandered near Bone Creek, crossing over the twin bridges and high crossing. Then as we neared the end of the loop we encountered some of the most interesting rock outcrops and formations I have seen. We "squeezed" through the keyhole and made our way past the Cauliflower Rocks, to the Double Arch and, if you're looking to take pictures be sure to save a few for here, as we spent a great deal of time right here, snapping away. As we finished our posing and preening for photos, we made our way out through The Slot and all walked back to the car with smiles I thought may need to be surgically removed.

According to many other hikers, the trail takes about an hour to complete, however, we took nearly two. With so much to see and so many places to spend "just one more minute" taking pictures it is easy to extend the traditional hiking time, and these days that time, spent with family having a great time, is overtime I look forward to and can't wait to do again.

I hope you enjoy the blog, let me know if you have any questions and thanks for reading!

More Information:
Pickle Springs Natural Area Website
Pickle Springs Topographic Map
 

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A BIG Little Hike: Little Grand Canyon, Illinois

Little Grand Canyon, tucked away in the Shawnee National Forest, was one of my very favorite hiking spots back in college. I discovered it on a field trip in my botany class back in 1998, I was impressed with the lush green beauty of the area, the "ruggedness" of the 3.6 mile hike and the relative feeling of remoteness as our instructor led class traversed the sandstone walled canyon trail in search of endangered local plant species. Would I feel the same sense of remoteness, would I encounter the same beauty, would the trail seem as "rugged" in a 2011 revisit with my family?

Before I get too far in, allow me add a little bit more to our 2011 revisit of the Little Grand Canyon, as many in the Midwest (particularly those who live in areas that are near the Mississippi River) will know, this area is near the historic flood levels that occurred in 2011 and that did cause a bit of issue with our hike. The issue was, we couldn't make the full loop. Upon traveling to the bottom of the canyon, we hiked as far as we could, swarmed by mosquitoes, up to our thighs in mud, hoping constantly that we "were through the worst of it"... We finally were forced to backtrack when our hairy little buddy couldn't go any further due to the depth and consistency of the mud. However, given all of this, we still LOVED this area and I can't wait to return!

As we pulled into the parking lot we were greeted with what is becoming a rare sight at state and national parks, a bathroom and a well marked map of the area. However, we should have paid a bit more attention to the sign posted right next to the map exclaiming: "Trail Impassible Due To High Water!". But come on, that's for chumps, right? So we grabbed our walking sticks and prepared for our first foray as a family out into a small portion of the Shawnee National Forest.

The initial trail from the parking lot is fairly easy going, consisting of a nice, wide, gravel trail that will lead the wanderer to the beginning of a 365 foot descent into the Little Grand Canyon. This portion of the trail is well maintained and well traversed and offers much to see in the way of trees and undergrowth. Oak and Hickory trees line the trail and, during our visit, they even lay across the trail which may inhibit some with disabilities from traveling further. We took our time walking this portion, pausing to identify some plants such as poison ivy (which my daughter was unfamiliar with), broad leafed ferns and the Celandine Poppy (Wicked Witch of the West: Poppies... Poppies. Poppies will put them to sleep. Sleeeeep. Now they'll sleeeeep!).

As the gravel ends your descent will begin and I'll provide you a warning, it can be slick, and I'm not being an overcautious old man here, it is slicker than snot in some spots especially following any rain. So, be sure to watch your footing, even on the steps that are carved into the sandstone, because if you slip in some areas you're in for a pretty rapid fall and possibly a not-so-fun slide ride to the bottom. But this also adds to the "ruggedness" of the trail, the little bit of slip fear that may enter your brain make this portion of the trail seem adventurous to some, perhaps even providing a bit of a story for those who haven't yet been out to the area.

As we traveled down to the canyon floor, we passed mini waterfalls, grottoes, scurried across worn ledges and even did a few impressions of Sylvester Stallone from Cliffhanger, acting like we could fall at any minute. The steady sound of the water running through the area and birds calling were all that we could hear, and my mind went back to my class hike and the feeling as though we were the only ones out there. We paid special attention to the hand and foot holds carved into the sandstone by the Civilian Conservation Corps during the the Great Depression. I searched for more broad leafed ferns on the way down and added to the list a few liverworts and hairy cap moss. We kept an eye out for local wildlife too, and encountered a little guy we nicknamed the "Hypno-Toad" and we were treated to a unique gathering of butterflies just as we reached the canyon floor.

Upon reaching the canyon floor, the now dirt trail, leveled out and we instantly noticed the canyon walls, towering over 100 foot overhead. This is also where the mosquitoes began their relentless assault, dive-bombing and attacking in mass. They were of the large, black variety and you could actually feel each bite. I don't believe they are permanent residents to the area, at least not in the numbers we encountered, but I highly recommend a few sprays of a reliable mosquito repellent prior to taking this hike, better safe than swarmed... We followed the White Diamond marked trail for as long as were able, finally having to backtrack due to mud that was just too deep for our sheltie, Hudson, to continue on. As we backtracked, I made sure that we poked into a few of the overhangs and crags to see if we could discover any other little hidden gems such as this Blue Diamond marked tree, a fallen tree missing its center and a few autographs we found in a shallow cave carved into the canyon stone.

We took a second to wash up and then began our journey back up the Little Grand Canyon, disappointed that we couldn't make the loop this time, but excited for the chance to return and complete it then.

Since we visited in 2011, there was a forest fire that burned around 18 acres of the area located one quarter of a mile from the trail head in April of 2013. There is more information at the Southern Illinoisan, The Southeast Missourian and WPSD (NBC).

More of our pictures from the area are available on my Flickr Page


Find More Information (click to visit):
Shawnee National Forest (Little Grand Canyon)
Botany in Natural Areas of Southern Illinois


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Latitude: 37.68028
Longitude: -89.39472