When you think of a wetlands area, there is no
doubt that you may quickly conjure up an image of Swamp Thing's eerie home immediately. Or, perhaps you envision a marshy bog filled with savage spiders, slippery snakes
and man-sized mosquitoes, each lying in wait under an ever present layer of
fog, lurking within their secret hiding places until deciding to lurch
forth for you, their unsuspecting
victim. But in reality, wetlands are beautiful areas that also
provide a home to more than a third of the species on the U.S.
Endangered Species List and serve a variety of services to us as
well; such as recharging our ground water supplies, providing a filter
which removes pollution, and trapping flood waters. But beyond those important ecological benefits, you will find that wetlands may provide another intangible benefit to you. You may find your own soul reinvigorated, if just given a chance to step beyond the "mud and muck" of Cache River State Natural Area...
Cache River State Natural Area
This Cherrybark Oak
Champion may be found
on the Todd Fink
Heron Pond Trail
The Cache River State Natural Area is an absolutely stunning example of a well restored wetlands area. You will find this gem nestled within a floodplain, which was sculpted by the mighty flood waters of the Ohio River ages ago. The Cache River Wetlands is now fed by the Cache River and it's many tributaries and stretches over 14,960 acres in Johnson, Massac, and Pulaski counties in Southern Illinois. This scenic area also plays as a featured stop to many migratory bird species, including bald eagles, great blue herons and (a personal favorite) snowy egrets. In addition to the myriad of migratory birds you will undoubtedly catch an earful of the areas most vocal inhabitants as choirs of spring peepers, bullfrogs, bird-voiced tree frogs, American toads and more amphibians all sing together from the bogs to the boughs and everywhere in between. As you hike on the trails and boardwalks below you may also want to keep a keen eye trained for some of the larger warm blooded residents as many white tailed deer, squirrels, raccoon, beavers, foxes and mink call the area home as well.
On our visit we were lucky enough to hike three areas within the Cache River State Natural Area (click to visit individual pages or read more below): Big Cypress Tree Trail (250 feet),the Section 8 Wood Nature Preserve Boardwalk (475 feet) and the Todd Fink-Heron Pond Trail (1.5 miles). Each of these short hikes were absolutely stunning and completely unique in their own way. These short journeys also seriously whet my appetite for a return to visit areas such as the Marshall Ridge Trail (2.8 miles), Lookout Point Trail (1 mile), and the Lower Cache River Swamp Trail (2.5 miles), but that will have to be another post at another time I suppose.
Big Cypress Tree Trail
Although missing some of its mighty boughs,
the state champion is still an impressive sight!
Beyond the wildlife that inhabits these wetlands, the area also boasts some truly spectacular plant life. Throughout the Cache Area Wetlands you will discover ancient cypress trees with their flared bases and many "knees", which were mere saplings over 1,000 years ago, now standing sentinel over the rich, black-water swamps that still nourish them. On the short, 250 foot Big Cypress Tree Trail you will find one very special bald cypress. This particular cypress tree has been so nourished by the rich waters that it has developed a remarkable base (also referred to as a buttress) of over 40 feet in circumference, which has earned it recognition as a state champion. As you make your way to the enormous namesake of this trail be sure to take note of the other plants such as majestic tupelo trees and low lying thickets of button-bush that share the landscape with the silent cypress colossus.
Section 8 Wood Nature Preserve Boardwalk
The murky waters of Section 8 are haunting.
There is something nearly hypnotic about the chorus song of nature, in particular the melodies of the amphibious inhabitants of the wetlands. The soprano trills of the tree frogs blend with the rich baritones of the southern leopard frogs, while the deep bass of the bullfrogs seem to keep the beat and complete the scale, providing the perfect background accompaniment as you stroll the wooden Section 8 Boardwalk (click here for more "Swamp Music":). As you make your way over the 475 foot long boardwalk you will be enveloped by the cypress, tupelo and other varieties of marsh loving trees, many of which you will be able to identify thanks to the wonderful interpretive panels that are available along the path. Then, as you look out upon the muddy and murky waters, perhaps wondering exactly what may lie beneath its calm surface, you may also catch sight of another state champion, this time a tremendous water tupelo, which can be found at the very end of the boardwalk. Unfortunately I just could not snap a good picture of it, or I would have provided one here for you... Now I guess you'll just have to take this serenaded trip as well. :)
Todd Fink-Heron Pond Trail
See that cool "Zipper" effect?
This short, 1.5 mile, trail begins simply enough. You'll find yourself descending into a mix of hardwood forest comprised of a mix of oak, hickory and sweet gum. As you reach the bottom of your descent you will come to a small truss bridge over which you will make your way over a convergence of Dutchman's Creek and the Cache River. If you find yourself crossing this bridge without setting an eye just upstream, toward the actual meeting of these two streams of water, you are missing a truly magnificent sight. For it is here, just upstream, where the relatively clear waters of Dutchman's Creek and the rich muddy flow of the Cache River slowly merge, becoming one, but not before the waters dance together, swirling and circling, ebbing and flowing, creating an absolutely hypnotic effect. The trail continues on just the other side of the bridge, and closely follows the snaking trail of the Cache River. As you continue your hike you will find a fork in the trail, it is here that you will want to journey to the left and in just a few short yards you will find the Heron Pond boardwalk.
The Heron Pond boardwalk winds its way out and into the very heart of its namesake pond. The waters here were more clear than we found at the Section 8 boardwalk, which allowed us glimpses of turtles, fish, insects, frogs and more as they swam among the giant tupelo trees and "knees" of the cypress here. In areas we found duckweed would obscure our little windows into the private underwater world of the swamps residents, occasionally these serene green mats of aquatic carpet would erupt with a violent "POP" as an underwater assassin would hungrily burst through the thin layer of duckweed in pursuit of an insect.
Now, after you've taken the journey on the Heron Pond boardwalk you may think that's it... But you'd be wrong. Remember that fork, where we turned left? You may be wondering what exactly would have happened had we turned right instead. Well let not your heart be troubled, because had you turned right at that fork you would have taken a trail that would have led you directly to yet another state champion tree! This time you would have discovered the state champion cherrybark oak tree that has grown to a circumference of over 22 feet and 100 feet high! You may never have quite so much fun feeling so very, very small and believe me, it's worth a quick visit to set your eyes upon this towering titan, plus it is only a few yards up that right path...
Cache River Wetlands Center
You may want to begin your entire adventure to the Cache River Wetlands Area at the Barkhausen-Cache River Wetlands Center. Unfortunately the visitor center was closed when we visited the park on a Monday, but it certainly seems to have many offerings for you to peruse. It is located at 8885 State Route 37, Cypress, IL, 62923 and is now open to the public five days a week, Wednesday through Sunday from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
There is something nearly hypnotic about the chorus song of nature, in particular the melodies of the amphibious inhabitants of the wetlands. The soprano trills of the tree frogs blend with the rich baritones of the southern leopard frogs, while the deep bass of the bullfrogs seem to keep the beat and complete the scale, providing the perfect background accompaniment as you stroll the wooden Section 8 Boardwalk (click here for more "Swamp Music":).
As you make your way over the 475 foot long boardwalk you will be enveloped by the cypress, tupelo and other varieties of marsh loving trees, many of which you will be able to identify thanks to the wonderful interpretive panels that are available along the path. Then, as you look out upon the muddy and murky waters, perhaps wondering exactly what may lie beneath its calm surface, you may also catch sight of another state champion, this time a tremendous water tupelo, which can be found at the very end of the boardwalk. Unfortunately I just could not snap a good picture of it, or I would have provided one here for you... Now I guess you'll just have to take this serenaded trip as well. :)
Real-life giants reside in a small conservation area near East Prairie, Missouri. These behemoths tower silently over the swampy land. As we strolled among these quiet colossi we gained a unique, native view of Southeast Missouri and were afforded a free trip back in time; as Big Oak Tree State Park is one of few areas that reflects the original swampy land that the early Native Americans and settlers explored and lived in centuries before us, earning it a Missouri tag as a Natural Area. As we journeyed over the Boardwalk Trail it was amazing to see traditional Missouri hardwood forest with exquisite oak, hickory, sweet gum and sugarberry transform into an environment that would seem to be more at home in Louisiana; a soupy swamp featuring a champion pumpkin ash, bald cypress, swamp privet, button bush, swamp locust, and large black willows, all within a just few yards. After a tour of Big Oak Tree State Park visitors can certainly see why we locals call the bootheel "Swampeast" Missouri.
The Park of Champions!
Many current and past champion trees call Big Oak Tree State Park home. In fact, this Missouri state park boasts more champion trees than any other location in Missouri, earning it the nickname "The Park of Champions". According to what I have read the park's two National Champion trees are a Pumpkin Ash with a 118 foot circumference that stands over 150 foot tall and a Persimmon that is 97 foot in circumference and reaches 133 foot in height. Just to provide a quick comparison of just how mighty these mammoths are, an average Persimmon tree stands about 60 foot tall, the noble Persimmon Champion in Big Oak Tree State Park more than doubles that figure! If you want to see the champion Persimmon you will need to take the1.5 mile Bottomland Trail. I'll be honest, even the VINES here are MASSIVE! You can find vines growing up these majestic giants that are reminiscent of creeping vegetation I've only seen in Indiana Jones movies. Be careful though, some of those vines are poison ivy; others include wild grape, peppervine and Virginia creeper.
A unique native habitat provides for diverse life.
As you hike through Big Oak Tree State Park you may spot wildlife and plantlife that you may not see again or at any other park in Missouri. As you journey through this unique environment, be sure to keep an eye out for the swamp rabbit, who has been placed on the conservation concern list due to its habitat continuing to be drained in Missouri. This unique and sometimes large rabbit loves to swim in the soupy Southeast Missouri swamplands, if pursued they will take to the water to avoid their pursuer and can frequently be seen resting on logs and sticks in the middle of swampland. Birdwatchers from near and far can also be found as over 150 species of birds may be seen here; including the brightly colored prothonotary warbler and my personal favorite, the pileated woodpecker, which can be heard tapping upon the Big Oak Tree giants in search of a meal. There are snakes in the swamp as well, although there have NOT been any documented sightings of any venomous water snakes such as the water moccasin (cottonmouth) according to the Missouri State Park's Plants and Animals page. You may also keep an ear out for the chorus of croaks, as the frogs serenade for mates in the spring and summer. If you would like to know how to identify the type of frog by it's song, here is a great video for you:
Be sure to bring the kids...
Big Oak Tree State Park is a perfect place to take the kids and have a great day out. The park itself boasts a large picnic area that is near both of the trails and feature barbeque grills, picnic tables, playground, and a large shelter (just in case the weather changes). The Boardwalk Trail is a beautiful and easy walk, the suspended metal trail keeps you dry and your shoes dry as you make your way through the bottomland forest and into a real Southeast Missouri swamp. However, if you are looking for the Interpretive Center which is located at the trailhead for the Boardwalk Trail, it is closed, with a No Trespassing sign blocking the stairs.
But keep in mind...
There are plenty of birds singing, frogs leaping, and even a few snakes slithering in the swamp, but the trail should keep you above any danger. Remember though, you're in a real patch of the "Swampeast" here, and mosquitoes just LOVE all that muddy stagnant water, so don't forget the bug repellent you may want to read my critically acclaimed "Better Safe Than Swarmed - Homemade Bug Spray" and make your very own (ok, so just my mother acclaimed it, but she's a critic, right?). And my "Tiny. Tenacious. Terrible. Ticks." post will help you properly remove any unwanted bloodsucking hitchhikers that may feel the need to tag along. You may also want to tack a glance at How to Take a Great Dayhike as well, to help you prepare for a great family or solo hike. If you're looking for a trail longer and more "natural" than the Boardwalk Trail, you'll want to hit the Bottomland Trail, which is accessible via a spur that leads to the picnic area and the official trailhead which is near the park's lake. The Missouri Department of Natural Resources has also produced a nice YouTube video that features Big Oak Tree Park, watch it below:
Thank youfor reading, I hope to see you out on the trail!
