Sam A. Baker Park: Shut Ins Trail

Sam A. Baker is a popular Missouri State Park, let me stress popular... and why the heck not?! This park really seems to have it all, from zipping along on bicycle trails, grilling hotdogs over a campfire, popping a tent at one of two huge camping areas, taking a cooling dip in the clear St. Francis River, to hiking on one of four trails, there is a little something for everyone. There is an added bonus to Sam A. Baker too, if you happen to forget something back at home, the area boasts a Park Store that has just about anything you may need. But keep in mind, with so much to offer at Sam A. Baker, there are many who seek to really take advantage of it, and by that I mean, it may be a bit... crowded.

First Impressions of the Park

My initial impressions of Sam A. Baker were fantastic, as we made our way down Highway 143 the trees began to envelop the road, creating a tunnel of green gently leading us toward our initial destination, Campground 1. The campground was very nice, and despite the recent rains, our campsite (number 5) was relatively dry with only a few low spots gathering puddles. After pitching the tent we decided to take a nice, leisurely stroll through the campground. Making our way just a bit to the South we found the cool St. Francis River, nearly a clear as a window, carving out its gravel banks and creating perfect places to wade and swim in its refreshing waters. As we explored the campground further we found a very well traversed and well maintained Paved Bike Trail to the North, which is quite a perk for the visiting camping jogger. This trail stretches 1.5 miles and travels from campground 1 all the way to the park store, it travels along State Highway 143 and allows for some picturesque views of Big Creek as well.

It's All About the Amenities!

After exploring the campground we journeyed over to the park store (which is VERY handy if you have found yourself forgetting something at home) and the park lodge. As Sam A. Baker does not allow you to transport your own firewood into the park, due to the emerald ash borer, so if you plan to have a campfire, be sure to pick up some wood at the store. Then while you're out you may like to take a quick stop at the Park Office and Visitor Center. There they will provide recreational equipment, free of charge, that you may use by simply checking the items out. After taking quick tours of the amenities we returned back to our campsite, flush with wood for a cozy campfire, ice cold sodas and some delicious chips from the store.

"Nocturnal Calls" and Camping

Once back at our campsite we started up our fire (due to the damp wood this was quite the undertaking, thank the heavens for lighter fluid) and roasted up some hotdogs, marveled as the fireflies faint green glow lit the night, told a few stories and then decided to get a good rest so we could explore the park even more the next day. After zipping up the tent, lying atop my sleeping bag I soon found myself being "gently" lulled to sleep with the echoing "Whoo HOOO" and "I'm SOOOOO Drunk" mating calls of the Migrating Midwestern Hooter, which were interrupted only by the heavy and constant "Ker-Thunk!" of the all to closely located latrine door. We did have a laugh out loud moment as our border collie, Hyatt, spotted a huge raccoon that had made its way onto our picnic table and attempted to leap through the mesh window of our tent in order to chase the raccoon away.

Upon awaking the next morning and with the migratory mating calls of the night now behind us, we decided to escape some of the more popular areas, in a desperate bid to get at least a small taste of the park's beauty without the crowds or noise. So we checked our area map and chose to set foot upon the Shut Ins Trail, a quick mile and a quarter hike out from just behind the Park Lodge, to see if we could find a slightly more secluded swimming hole.

The Shut Ins Trail

The Shut Ins Trail is wonderfully maintained; consisting of a well worn dirt path, sometimes sprinkled with gravel, and features low water bridges, handrails, and steps along the way. Children will find an easy hike on most of this route, and there are plenty of sights to see and share on your way along the path. We began our journey by heading downhill along the blue blazed trail with (what I believe to be) Big Creek bordering us just to the East. As we hiked about half a mile through the Sycamores, Cottonwoods and Sweet Gums we came upon a small off-shooting path, which we decided to investigate. Boy am I glad we did, because at the end of that path we found a gorgeous little waterfall, that wound its way through and over the large, moss covered dellenite boulders.

After getting our fill of scrambling over the boulders we headed back to the main trail and continued on, with all of summer's colors seemingly on display as wildflowers competed for our attention along the trail. We followed the trail for nearly another half mile until we came to a fork, one path leading to the Big Creek shut ins (to the right) and another path leading up the hill toward a connection with the Mudlick Trail. The path that led to the Mudlick Trail boasted a Shelter, which marked the intersection of the two trails, but also heads up a steeper incline. After a short bit of consideration we chose to head towards the Big Creek shut ins for a refreshing dip. Seriously, could there have been any other decision to be made on a hot summer's day?

The Big Creek shut ins seemed almost too good to be true, the area was wide, with water plenty deep enough for swimming and there were some low, flat cliffs that just begged to be jumped off. In fact, the water was at an almost perfect depth that day, but if you choose not to swim you could easily wade the shut ins, whose water was just a bit over chest high on our visit. We quickly found it was too good to be true, such a naturally beautiful swimmin' hole had spoken out and many had answered its call, within just a few minutes of our arrival the Big Creek shut in transformed from a peaceful watery respite to a rowdy outdoor roadhouse complete with Swazye'esque mullets to boot. We swam for a bit more then decided to make our way back to camp for a spot of lunch. As we headed back down the trail, making our way toward the Park Lodge, we passed a steady stream of like minded visitors who may have been just like us, looking for that little hide-a-way in the middle of a very, very popular Missouri State Park.

Final Thoughts

With so much to offer its no surprise that Sam A. Baker is so appealing to so many and there is no doubt that we'll return sometime and the 5.5 mile Mudlick Trail certainly looks very, very appealing, especially the Backpacker Camp located on a small spur of the Hike Only Section.. But the overall experience, for me, was it seemed simply too crowded. Sam A. Baker seemed (to me) more like a nature theme park than actual State Park and the campground, while very well maintained, was just a bit too... popular.

More Information: 

Sam A. Baker State Park Homepage
Sam A. Baker Hiking Trails
 - Shut In Trail Map
Fishing Report and Prospects: St. Francis River (above Wappappello Lake)
Local Treks on facebook 
Tiny. Tenacious. Terrible. Ticks. - A post on how to keep those bloodsuckers at bay!
How To Take A GREAT Day Hike - Hitting the trail? Then you may want to check out these tips.

Millstream Gardens: Well Shut Me In!

More of my pictures from Millstream Gardens Atta'Way---->

Millstream Gardens is 916 acres of pure magic. The area holds wonders for nearly every outdoor enthusiast and boasts an appearance more reminiscent of the rushing rivers of Colorado than the rolling hills of Missouri. The wonder and natural beauty of Millstream Gardens and the Tiemann Shut-ins contained therein, beg you to take it slow, absorb in the natural majesty and savor every sound, especially the steady sound of rare Missouri whitewater, rushing through the smooth carved granite.

As you enter the Millstream Gardens Conservation Area, located just off of hwy 72 between Arcadia and Fredricktown, MO, you will come to a fork in the road. Turning left at the fork takes you to the "official" trail head for the Millstream Gardens trail. From the official trail head the hike runs for about one and a half miles through the woodlands and along the St. Francois River, connecting Millstream Gardens to the Silver Mines Recreation Area. This trail is not a loop trail, so once you've made the journey to the Silver Mines, you'll be heading on back on the same trail, making the trip a three mile trek.

Local Treks: Tiemann Shut-Ins

For hikers with small children and disabilities you will LOVE the beginning of this trail, which hosts a half to three quarters of a mile of paved trail, featuring benches nearly every 100-200 feet. The paved trail also features a very unique low wooden bridge, which crosses a shallow creek, zigging and zagging back and forth creating an interesting crossing. While walking along this portion of the trail, keep a keen eye out for wild blackberries, I spotted them nearly everywhere on a summer trip to the area. At the end of the pavement you will come to a large wooden patio, which provides a perfect vantage point to take in a particularly beautiful section of Tiemann Shut-Ins (pronounced Tee-Man, according to the locals we spoke with). Why is it called a shut-in? Well here's a real "Ozark" answer: The term shut in comes from the stream or river being "shut in" or confined within a deep channel. Forcing the St. Francois River into this channel creates some decent rapids, and that's why the kayaking crews LOVE this portion of the river.

Who's a happy boy?

You'll want to spend some time here for sure. The scenery is absolutely astounding and you may find yourself snapping far more pictures than you ever imagined right here at this spot. It is also a perfect spot to dip your toes into the St. Francis River, let the kids (or yourself) splash around in the chilly water, leap from boulder to boulder, take in a quick snack or just sit, and let the sounds of the rushing water simply sooth you. On my first visit to this area, I can assure you that if my border collie, Hyatt, could speak he would have asked to never leave this spot. He splashed from rock to rock and along the sandy shores with the largest smile to ever grace a canine's face. Those of you with dogs will need to take care however, your shoes may give you ample grip on the smooth igneous rocks that form the shut-ins, but your pooch's pads and nails will not, Hyatt slipped into the water frequently as he attempted to follow the same route as myself.

Heading East from the overlook you will find the beginning of the Millstream Gardens hiking trail, which is unpaved. As you make your way down the dirt path the trail you will find signs calling attention to landmarks such as Shark's Fin rock, a large angular rock, jutting up from St. Francis River, perhaps to take a bite or two out of some of the kayakers as they shoot the rapids. Other labeled points of interest you will find in this beginning section of the trail are Pine Rock Overlook and Double Drop Rapids. Pine Rock Overlooks provides a perfect perch to steal a few photos of the shut-ins as well. As you continue, ever eastward, you will begin to leave the Tiemann Shut-Ins area and enter the more heavily wooded portion of the trail.

I caught this bug nabbing a snack!

After the beauty of Tiemann Shut-Ins, don't fret! There is much to be found in the forested area of the trail as well, Millstream Gardens isn't all just pink igneous rock, river and shut-ins. As you continue your hike along the trail you will find majestic oak, hickory and shortleaf pine in the upland woods, complimented by ash, elm and maple trees near the banks of the St. Francois River. The steady sounds of the river can nearly always be heard through the hike; providing a perfect background accompaniment to the bird solos and chorus provided by the wind blowing through the canopy. I spotted beautiful wildflowers nearly everywhere and took a great deal of photos of each, then upon looking at them closer at home, noticed that nearly every single flower hosted some type of stinging or biting insect. I'm certainly glad I didn't go sticking my nose straight in them! Other wildlife to keep an eye out for is white-tailed deer, turkey and... snakes during the warm months.

The trail through the wooded area is relatively flat, with only a few hills that reside near the midway point of the hike. In the "hilly" areas, be careful of your footing as there is loose rock and occasional water trickling through or over the trail. When you find yourself approximately three quarters of a mile east from the Tiemann Shut-In patio, you may notice a lonely concrete foundation, just before the trail begins to follow the St. Francis once again. I scoured the area for any indication as to what the foundation may have been, but only confounded myself more, spotting three cylindrical concrete forms 15-20 yards to the east of the foundation on the north side of the trail. I've continued to look online and even ask locals around the area, but have yet to discover what the foundation may have been prior. The trail may seem to "split" here at the foundation, but the path that leads west is just a slight spur that will take you to a scenic little area of the river, that features a splendid view of a tall bluff that forces the St. Francis River to flow on its northern side.

From here the trail continues eastward to the Silver Mines and Mark Twain National Forest. As the trail nears the banks of the St. Francis be aware that you may have to make slight deviations from the path, as rising water sometimes pools in these areas or deposits branches, twigs, trees and other objects that may block your path. Don't be too wary though, you will not have to step more than a few yards from the clear trail in order to get around these small "trail-blockers". If you've brought a picnic lunch the large open field at the Silver Mines provides not only a wonderful place to take in the scenery and spot TONS of wildflowers, but also many picnic tables as well so that you may sit alongside the St. Francis River, take a reprieve and prepare for the wonderful return trip to Millstream.

In fact, upon your return to Millstream you may want to take the path that leads west from the Tiemann Shut-Ins overlook. This trail will lead you to another perfect picnic spot, this one featuring a vista over looking the St. Francis River, a picnic pavilion, and one of the most twisted pine trees I've ever seen, just check it out below!

Enjoy a picnic with a view of the river and one TWISTED pine!

As with any trip into the woods there are ticks in this area, so you may want to brush up on what keeps them at bay and how to remove one should it embed. And of course if you're taking children along, you may want  to check out some tips on how to take a GREAT Day Hike. Thanks for reading, be sure to leave a comment down below or check us out on facebook!

 
More Information:
Mill Streams Garden Conservation Area on mdconline
Millstream Gardens Area Map
My Flickr Gallery of Images
Local Treks on facebook
White Water and Rock Hounding: Silver Mines Recreational Area
Tiny. Tenacious. Terrible. Ticks. - How to keep those bloodsuckers at bay!
How To Take A GREAT Day Hike

White Water and Rock Hounding: Silver Mines Recreational Area

A view of the breached dam at the Silver Mines Recreation Area.

Here's another great site that I discovered on a field trip in college, the Silver Mines Recreation Area, which is part of the Mark Twain National Forest, is located near Fredricktown and Ironton, Missouri. This area is named, ever so aptly, for the abandoned silver mines that are found here that were mined from 1877 through 1946 by the Einstein Silver Mining Company. Given that the operation spewed tons of rocks (leavings or tailings) from deep within the Earth as the miners searched for their target minerals of silver, tungsten and lead, this is a relative Shangri-la for rock hounds, who come from far and wide, rock hammers in hand to see what treasures they may unearth from the rubble. But those who are not out to hunt for minerals and stones may be after a different type of thrill, the thrill they find on the St. Francis River, the thrill of the only true "White Water" to be found in the state. I knew that the sound of rushing water and the possibility of finding some rare minerals would certainly interest my wife and daughter... and I couldn't have been more right.

A dragonfly paused long enough to give me this shot.

There are actually two hiking trails here, I'll send you to the one that is on the South side of the St. Francis River, that runs near the "Air Conditioner" mine and the tailings from the mine operations the North side is every bit as beautiful and slippery as the South, I just love rock hounding). After parking the car (be aware there is a day use fee of $2.00 per vehicle here, place your payment in the envelope and slip it into the locked container) you will make your way across the concrete walkway then head to the right to begin your one mile hike up to the dam. This hike is absolutely stunning, with gorgeous granite and felsite outcroppings and stunning views of the St. Francis River marking the trails progression. Be careful though, the same granite and felsite rocks that are so interesting to look at and examine may be the same formation may cause your rear become painfully acquainted with the hard ground and said rock, as these rocks can become quite slippery after rain or covered in early morning dew.

A member of the "indigenous" population takes a sun.

As you continue up, past the scenic overlook (which was in some disrepair on our visits there), be sure to stop by the "Air Conditioner" Mine and have a seat, especially on a hot Midwestern summer day! The air that comes from the mouth of this abandoned mine is more than cool enough to invigorate you for the rest of your short hike to the dam. You may not always be able to take a seat here though, as the available space at the mouth of the mine may be flooded with a foot or more of water, depending on the last time it rained in the area. Soon after taking a cooling break you will reach an area that is just pure rock, these are actually all tailings, from the mining of the area. This is a GREAT place to stop and begin exploring the different types of rocks and searching for some rare silver, quartz, or even small fragments of various gemstones.

Yes. That's a scorpion. In Missouri...

While you are exploring the abandoned tailings for interesting rocks and formations, BE CAREFUL! The native inhabitants of the area, which include snakes and small scorpions, may be hiding underneath rocks as you overturn them, use a stick... Please. This is the only place I have ever been, in Missouri, that I have actually found a scorpion (see the photo). I found this scorpion by picking up a rock, mere centimeters in front of its "face" and was beyond lucky not to have been stung. On a separate note, I believe that purple mineral found on the rocks there is flourite, and you'll find a great deal of that in the rocks here. Also be careful on the loose rock, period. It may shift at anytime and send you sliding down the hill. An amateur geologist also presented us with this small bit of knowledge (I can't vouch for the accuracy of it though), if you are looking for a bit of silver, most of it is contained in small veins you can find in the quartz rocks of the area. The silver here may appear dark or almost black to slightly silver metallic in color.

While rock hounding you may also keep an eye to the St. Francis River, particularly during the Spring, as you will undoubtedly be able to spot some crazy kayakers as they shoot out of the breach in the dam that used to span the river. These folks are amazing to watch and I've heard epic party details from when the American Whitewater Championships are in swing there during weekends in March. I never tire of watching the kayaks slice the water and navigate down the river through the dam.

Overall this is one of my favorite spots to visit and I certainly hope I didn't scare anyone with the shifting rocks, slippery outcrops, snakes and scorpions (dangers exist in all of the great outdoors), there is just so much to see and do. The whole family enjoys looking through the rocks, searching for that next shiny little "gem" and the wildlife certainly can keep you on your toes. When you couple that with magnificent views, a mine that can provide you a bit of A/C, a cooling river that you can take a wade in (but be careful of the current and dropoffs) and some wonderful plants and rock outcrops to explore, it's hard not to have a great family time!

All the action can exhaust even Hyatt, our border collie... And that's TOUGH!

Thank you for reading and, as always, let me know if you have any questions about the area or any experiences you would like to share! If you're "digging" (like the rock hound inference there?) the blog, be sure to give it a +1G up there and subscribe by just putting in your email address, you won't be bothered unless a new post goes up...

Happy trails and watch where you step!

More Information:

• Local Treks on facebook 
• Silver Mines Recreational Area Webpage
• Click here for Silver Mines Area Map
• Federal Regulations on "Rock Hounding"

View Larger Map

Other Nearby Parks/Recreational Areas:

• Millstream Gardens Conservation Area
• Amidon Memorial Conservation Area (more on this area soon another one of my FAVES!)